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CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

PAOE

An Indian Puneral—Copan River—•Woman's Kindness—Hacienda of San Antonio—Strange

Customs—A Mountain of Aloes—The State of Honduras—Village of Copan—An

ungracious Host—Wall of Copan—History of Copan—Pirst View of the Ruins—Vain

Speculations—Applications for Medicine—Search for an Abode—A sick Woman—Plagues

of a Muleteer—An unpleasant Situation—A Thunder-storm—Thoughts of buying

Copan 50

CHAPTER VI.

How to begin—Commencement of Explorations—Interest created by these Ruins—Visit

from the Alcalde—Vexatious Suspicions—A welcome Visitor—Letter from General

Cascara—Ruying a City—Visit from Don Gregorio's Pamily—Distribution of Medicines . 70

CHAPTER VII.

Surrey of the Ruins—Account of them by Huarros and by Colonel Galindo—Their Situation

—Their Extent—Plan of Survey—Pyramidal Structures—Rows of Death's Heads—

Remarkable Portrait—"Idols"—Character of the Engravings—Ranges of Terraces—

A Portrait—Courtyards—Curious Altar—Tablets of Hieroglyphics—Gigantic Head—

Stone Quarries—More Applicants for Medicine—" Idols" and Altars—Ruried Image—

Material of the Statues—Idols originally painted—Circular Altar—Antiquity of Copan . . 79

CHAPTER VIII.

Separation—An Adventure—Copan River—Don Clementino—A Wedding—A Supper—A

Wedding Rall—Ruying a Mule—The Sierra—View from the top—Esquipulas—The

Cura—Hospitable Reception—Church of Esquipulas—Responsibility of the Cura—Moun-

tain of Quezaltapeque—A narrow Escape—San Jacinto—Reception by the Padre—A

Village Pete—An Ambuscade—Motagua River—Village of Santa Rosalia—A Death

Scene 98

CHAPTER IX.

Chimalapa—The Cabildo—A Scene of Revelry—Guastatoya—A Hunt for Robbers—Approach
to Guatimala-^-Reautiful Scenery—Volcanoes of Agua aud Puego—Pirst View of the
City—Entry into the City—Pirst Impressions—The Diplomatic Residence—Parties in
Central America—Murder of Vice-President Plores— Political State of Guatimala—An
embarrassing Situation—The Constituent Assembly—Military Police Ill

CHAPTER X.

Hacienda of Naranjo—Lazoing—Diplomatic Correspondence—Pormulas—Fete of La Con-

cepcion—Taking the Rlack Veil—A Countrywoman—Renouncing the World—Pireworks,

etc.—Procession in Honour of the Virgin—Another Exhibition of Fireworks—A fiery

Rull—Insolent Soldiery in

CHAPTER XI.

The ProVlioF—News of the Day, how published in Guatimala—Visit to the Convent of La

Conception—The Parewell of the Nun—Carrera—Sketch of his Life—The Cholera— In-

surrections— Carrera heads the Insurgents—His Appearance in Guatimala—Capture of the

City—Carrera triumphant—Arrival of Morazan—Hostilities—Pursuit of Carrera—His

Defeat—He is again uppermost—Interview with Carrera—His Character 134
CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER XII.

PAGE

Party to Mixco—A Scene of Pleaiure—Procession in Honour of the Patron Saint of Mixco

—Pireworks—A Rombardment—Smoking Cigars—A Night-Rrawl—Suffering and Sorrow

—A Cockfight—A Walk in the Suburbs—Sunday Amusements—Return to the City . .159

CHAPTER XIIL

Excursion to La Antigua and the Pacific Ocean—San Lucas—Mountain Scenery—£1 Rio

Pentativo—La Antigua—Account of its Destruction—An Octogenarian—The Cathedral—

San Juan Obispo—Santa Maria—Volcano de Agua—Ascent of the Mountain—The Crater

—A lofty Meeting-place—The Descent—Return to La Antigua—Cultivation of Cochineal

'—Classic Ground— Ciudad Vieja—Its Poundation—Visit from Indians—Departure from

Ciudad Vieja—Pirst Sight of the Pacific—Alotenaugo—Volcan del Puego—Eacuintla—

Sunset Scene—Masagua—Port_of Istapa—Arrival at the Pacific 161

CHAPTER XTV.

The Return—Hunt for a Mule—Overo—Masagua—Escuintla—Palls of San Pedro Martyr—

Michatoyal River—Village of San Pedro—A Major-Domo—San Cristoval—Amatitan—

A roving Ameriean—Entry into Guatimala—Letter from Mr. Catherwood—Christmas Eve

—Arrival of Mr. Catherwood—Plaza de Toros—A Rullfight—The Theatre—Official Busi-

ness—The Aristocracy of Guatimala—State of the Country—New Year's Day—Ferocity of

Party 178

CHAPTER XV.

Hunt for a Government—Diplomatic Difficulties—Departure from Guatimala—Lake of

Amatitan—Attack of Pever and Ague—Overo—Istapa-A Prench Merchant Ship—Port of

Acajutla—Illness— Zonzonate— The Government found—Visit to the Volcano of Izalco—

Course of the Eruptions—Descent from the Volcano 189

CHAPTER XVI.

Sickness and Mutiny—Illness of Captain Jay—Critical Situation—Rough Nursing—Dolphins

—Succession of Volcanoes—Gulf of Nicoya—Harbour of Caldera—Another Patient—

Hacienda of San Pelippe—Mountain of Aguacate—" Zillenthal Patent Self-Acting Cold

Amalgamation Machine "—Gold Mines—View from the Mountain-top , 199

CHAPTER XVII.

La GarlU—Alajuela—A friendly People—Hcredia—Rio Segundo—Coffee Plantations of San

Jose—The Sacrament for the Dying—A happy Meeting—Travelling Embarrassments—

Quarters in a Convent—SeKor Carillo, Chief of State—Vicissitudes of Portune—Visit to

Cartago—Tres Rios—An unexpected Meeting—Ascent of the Volcano of Cartage—The

Crater—View of the two Seas—Descent—Stroll through Cartago—A Rurial—Another

Attack of Pever and Ague—A Vagabond—Cultivation of Coffee 208

CHAPTER XVIII.

Departure for Guatimala—Esparza—Town of Costa Rica—The Rarranca—Wild Scenery—
Hacienda of Aranjuez—River Lagartos—Cerros of Collito—Herds of Deer—Santa Rosa-
Don Juan Jose Ronilla—An Earthquake—A Cattle Parm—Ragasn—Ouanacaste—An
agreeable Welcome—Relle of Guanacaste—Pleasant Lodgings—Cordilleras—Volcanoes of
Rincon and Orosl—Hacienda of San Teresa—Sunset View—The Pacific again »SO

CHAPTER XXV.

PAGE

Reception at the Government House—The Captain in Trouble—A Change of Character—'

Arrangements for Journey to Palenque—Arrest of the Captain—His Release—Dangers in

Prospect—Pearful State of the Country—Last Interview with Carrera—Departure from

Guatimala—A Don Quixote—Cludad Vieja—Plain of El Vieja—Volcanoes, Plains, and

Villages —San Andres Isapa—Dangerous Road—A Molino—Journey continued—Rar-

rancas—Tecpan Guatimala —A noble Church—A sacred Stone—The ancient City—

Description of the Ruins—A Molino—Another Earthquake—Patzum—A Ravine—Portifi-

cations—Los Altos—Godines—Losing a good Priend—Magnificent Scenery—San Antonio

—Lake of Atitan 208

CHAPTER XXVI.

Lake of Atitan—Conjectures as to its Origin, &c.—A Sail on the Lake—A dangerous Situa-
tion—A lofty Mountain Range—Ascent of the Mountains—Commanding View—Reautiful
Plain—An elevated Village — Ride along the Lake — Solola —Visit to Santa Cruz del
ii'iirln—Scenery on the Road — Rarrancas —San Thomas—Whipping Posts—Plain of
QuichS — The Village — Ruins of Quiche—Its History—Desolate Scene—A facetious
Cura—Description of the Ruins —Plan —The Royal Palace —The Place of Sacrifice —An
Image—Two Heads, Stc.—Destruction of the Palace recent—An Arch S19

CHAPTER XXIX.

Journey continued—A Mountain Plain—Lost Guides—A trying Moment—Aguas Calientcs
—A magnificent View—Gold Ore — San Sebastiano—Gueguetenango—Sierra Madre — A
huge Skeleton—The Ruins — Pyramidal Structures—A Vault—Mounds—A welcome
Addition—Interior of a Mound—Vases—Ascent of the Sierra Madre—Ruena Vista—The
Descent—Todos Santos—San Martin—San Andres Petapan—A Porest on Pire—Suffering
of the Mules from Swarms of Plies—San Antonio Guista 300

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