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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
DEPARTURE-The Voyage-Arrival at Balize-Mixing of Colours-Government House-
Colonel M'Donald-Origin of Balize-Negro Schools-Scene in a Court-Room-Law
without Lawyers-The Barracks-Excursion in a Pit-Pan-A Beginning of Honours-
Honours accumulating-Departure from Balize-Sweets of Office
1
CHAPTER II.
Every one for himself-Travellers' Tricks-Puenta Gorda-A Visit to the Carib Indians—
A Carib Crone-A Baptism-Rio Dolce-Beautiful Scenery-Yzabal-Reception of the
Padre A Barber in Office-A Band of "Invincibles "-Parties in Central America-A
Compatriot-A Grave in a Foreign Land-Preparations for the Passage of "the Mountain"
-A Road not Macadamized-Perils by the Way-A well-spiced Lunch-The Mountain
passed
CHAPTER III.
A Canonigo-How to roast a Fowl-Extempore Shoemaking-Motagua River-Beautiful
Scene Crossing the River-The Luxury of Water-Primitive Costumes-How to make
Tortillas-Costly Timber-Gualan-Oppressive Heat-Shock of an Earthquake-A Stroll
through the Town-A troublesome Muleteer-A Lawsuit-Important Negotiations-A
Modern Bona Dea-How to gain a Husband-A Kingdom of Flora-Zacapa-Making free
with a Host
CHAPTER IV.
Purchasing a Bridle-A School and its Regulations-Conversation with an Indian-Chiqui-
mula-A Church in Ruins-A Veteran of the French Empire-St. Stephanos-A Land of
Mountains-An Affair with a Muleteer-A deserted Village-A rude Assault-Arrest-
Imprisonment-Release .
11
28
40
CHAPTER V.
An Indian Funeral-Copan River-Woman's Kindness-Hacienda of San Antonio-Strange
Customs-A Mountain of Aloes-The State of Honduras-Village of Copan-An
ungracious Host-Wall of Copan-History of Copan-First View of the Ruins-Vain
Speculations-Applications for Medicine-Search for an Abode-A sick Woman-Plagues
of a Muleteer-An unpleasant Situation-A Thunder-storm-Thoughts of buying
Copan
50
CHAPTER VI.
How to begin-Commencement of Explorations-Interest created by these Ruins-Visit
from the Alcalde-Vexatious Suspicions-A welcome Visitor-Letter from General
Cascara-Buying a City-Visit from Don Gregorio's Family-Distribution of Medicines
CHAPTER VII.
Survey of the Ruins-Account of them by Huarros and by Colonel Galindo-Their Situation
-Their Extent-Plan of Survey-Pyramidal Structures-Rows of Death's Heads-
Remarkable Portrait-" Idols "-Character of the Engravings-Ranges of Terraces-
A Portrait-Courtyards-Curious Altar-Tablets of Hieroglyphics-Gigantic Head-
Stone Quarries-More Applicants for Medicine-" Idols" and Altars-Buried Image-
Material of the Statues-Idols originally painted-Circular Altar-Antiquity of Copan..
CHAPTER VIII.
Separation-An Adventure-Copan River-Don Clementino-A Wedding-A Supper-A
Wedding Ball-Buying a Mule-The Sierra-View from the top-Esquipulas-The
Cura-Hospitable Reception-Church of Esquipulas-Responsibility of the Cura-Moun-
tain of Quezaltapeque-A narrow Escape-San Jacinto-Reception by the Padre-A
Village Fête-An Ambuscade-Motagua River-Village of Santa Rosalia-A Death
Scene
70
79
98
·
CHAPTER IX.
Chimalapa-The Cabildo-A Scene of Revelry-Guastatoya-A Hunt for Robbers-Approach
to Guatimala-Beautiful Scenery-Volcanoes of Agua aud Fuego-First View of the
City-Entry into the City-First Impressions-The Diplomatic Residence-Parties in
Central America-Murder of Vice-President Flores-Political State of Guatimala-An
embarrassing Situation-The Constituent Assembly-Military Police.
CHAPTER X.
Hacienda of Naranjo-Lazoing-Diplomatic Correspondence-Formulas-Fête of La Con-
cepcion-Taking the Black Veil-A Countrywoman-Renouncing the World-Fireworks,
etc.-Procession in Honour of the Virgin-Another Exhibition of Fireworks-A fiery
Bull-Insolent Soldiery
111
125
CHAPTER XI.
The Provisor-News of the Day, how published in Guatimala-Visit to the Convent of La
Concepcion-The Farewell of the Nun-Carrera-Sketch of his Life-The Cholera-In-
surrections-Carrera heads the Insurgents-His Appearance in Guatimala-Capture of the
City-Carrera triumphant-Arrival of Morazan-Hostilities-Pursuit of Carrera-His
Defeat-He is again uppermost-Interview with Carrera-His Character
134
Party to Mixco-A Scene of Pleasure-Procession in Honour of the Patron Saint of Mixco
-Fireworks-A Bombardment-Smoking Cigars-A Night-Brawl-Suffering and Sorrow
-A Cockfight—A Walk in the Suburbs-Sunday Amusements-Return to the City . . 153
CHAPTER XIII.
Excursion to La Antigua and the Pacific Ocean-San Lucas-Mountain Scenery-El Rio
Pensativo-La Antigua-Account of its Destruction-An Octogenarian-The Cathedral-
San Juan Obispo-Santa Maria-Volcano de Agua-Ascent of the Mountain-The Crater
-A lofty Meeting-place-The Descent-Return to La Antigua-Cultivation of Cochineal
-Classic Ground-Ciudad Vieja-Its Foundation-Visit from Indians-Departure from
Ciudad Vieja-First Sight of the Pacific-Alotenango-Volcan del Fuego-Escuintla-
Sunset Scene-Masagua-Port of Istapa-Arrival at the Pacific.
CHAPTER XIV.
The Return-Hunt for a Mule-Overo-Masagua-Escuintla-Falls of San Pedro Martyr-
Michatoyal River-Village of San Pedro-A Major-Domo-San Cristoval-Amatitan-
A roving American-Entry into Guatimala-Letter from Mr. Catherwood-Christmas Eve
-Arrival of Mr. Catherwood-Plaza de Toros-A Bullfight-The Theatre-Official Busi-
ness-The Aristocracy of Guatimala-State of the Country-New Year's Day-Ferocity of
Party
161
178
CHAPTER XV.
Hunt for a Government-Diplomatic Difficulties-Departure from Guatimala-Lake of
Amatitan-Attack of Fever and Ague-Overo-Istapa-A French Merchant Ship-Port of
Acajutla-Illness-Zonzonate-The Government found-Visit to the Volcano of Izalco-
Course of the Eruptions-Descent from the Volcano
CHAPTER XVI.
Sickness and Mutiny-Illness of Captain Jay-Critical Situation-Rough Nursing-Dolphins
-Succession of Volcanoes-Gulf of Nicoya-Harbour of Caldera-Another Patient-
Hacienda of San Felippe-Mountain of Aguacate-" Zillenthal Patent Self-Acting Cold
Amalgamation Machine"-Gold Mines-View from the Mountain-top .
CHAPTER XVII.
189
199
La Garita-Alajuela-A friendly People-Heredia-Rio Segundo-Coffee Plantations of San
Jose-The Sacrament for the Dying-A happy Meeting-Travelling Embarrassments-
Quarters in a Convent-Señor Carillo, Chief of State-Vicissitudes of Fortune-Visit to
Cartago Tres Rios-An unexpected Meeting-Ascent of the Volcano of Cartago-The
Crater-View of the two Seas-Descent-Stroll through Cartago-A Burial-Another
Attack of Fever and Ague-A Vagabond-Cultivation of Coffee
CHAPTER XVIII.
Departure for Guatimala-Esparza-Town of Costa Rica-The Barranca-Wild Scenery-
Hacienda of Aranjuez-River Lagartos-Cerros of Collito-Herds of Deer-Santa Rosa-
Don Juan José Bonilla-An Earthquake-A Cattle Farm-Bagases-Guanacaste-An
agreeable Welcome-Belle of Guanacaste-Pleasant Lodgings-Cordilleras-Volcanoes of
Rincon and Orosi-Hacienda of San Teresa-Sunset View-The Pacific again.
208
220
CHAPTER XIX.
Visit to the Volcano of Masaya-Village of Masaya-Lake of Masaya-Nindiri-Ascent of
the Volcano-Account of it-The Crater-Descent into it-Volcano of Nindiri-Ignorance
of the People concerning Objects of Interest-Return to Masaya-Another Countryman-
Managua-Lake of Managua-Fishing-Beautiful Scenery-Mateares-Questa del Relox
-Nagarotis-Crosses-A Gamekeeper-Pueblo Nuevo
231
CHAPTER XX.
Beautiful Plain-Leon-Stroll through the Town-Baneful Effects of Party Spirit-Scenes
of Horror-Unpleasant Intelligence-Journey continued-A fastidious Beggar-Chinan-
dega-Gulf of Conchagua-Visit to Realejo-Cotton Factory-Harbour of Realejo-El
Viejo-Port of Naguiscolo-Importance of a Passport-Embarking Mules-A Bungo-
Volcano of Coseguina-Eruption of 1835-La Union.
239
CHAPTER XXI.
Journey to San Salvador-A new Companion-San Alejo-War Alarms-State of San Sal-
vador-River Lempa-San Vicente-Volcano of San Vicente-Thermal Springs-Cojute-
peque-Arrival at San Salvador-Prejudice against Foreigners-Contributions-Press-
Gangs-Vice-President Vigil-Taking of San Miguel and San Vicente-Rumours of a
March upon San Salvador-Departure from San Salvador-La Barranca de Guaramal-
Volcano of Izalco-Depredations of Rascon-Zonzonate-News from Guatimala-Journey
continued-Aguisalco-Apeneca-Mountain of Aguachapa-Subterranean Fires-Agua-
chapa-Defeat of Morazan-Confusion and Terror
249
CHAPTER XXII.
Approach of Carrera's Forces-Terror of the Inhabitants-Their Flight-Surrender of the
Town-Ferocity of the Soldiery-A Bulletin-Diplomacy-A Passport-A Breakfast-An
Alarm-The Widow Padilla-An Attack-Defeat of Carrera's Forces-The Town taken
by General Morazan-His Entry-The Widow's Son-Visit to General Morazan-His Ap-
pearance, Character, etc.-Plans deranged
263
CHAPTER XXIII.
Visit from General Morazan-End of his Career-Procuring a Guide-Departure for Guati-
mala-Fright of the People-The Rio Paz-Hacienda of Pamita-A fortunate Escape-
Hacienda of San José-An awkward Predicament-A kind Host-Rancho of Hoctilla-
Oratorio and Leon-Rio de los Esclavos-The Village-Approach to Guatimala-Arrival
at Guatimala-A Sketch of the Wars-Defeat of Morazan-Scene of Massacre
CHAPTER XXIV.
Ruins of Quirigua-Visit to them-Los Amates-Pyramidal Structure-A colossal Head-
An Altar-A Collection of Monuments-Statues-Character of the Ruins-A lost City-
Purchasing a ruined City
275
291
Reception at the Government House-The Captain in Trouble-A Change of Character-
Arrangements for Journey to Palenque-Arrest of the Captain-His Release-Dangers in
Prospect Fearful State of the Country-Last Interview with Carrera-Departure from
Guatimala-A Don Quixote-Ciudad Vieja-Plain of El Vieja-Volcanoes, Plains, and
Villages-San Andres Isapa-Dangerous Road-A Molino-Journey continued-Bar-
rancas-Tecpan Guatimala -A noble Church-A sacred Stone-The ancient City-
Description of the Ruins-A Molino-Another Earthquake-Patzum-A Ravine-Fortifi-
cations-Los Altos-Godines-Losing a good Friend-Magnificent Scenery-San Antonio
-Lake of Atitan
298
CHAPTER XXVI.
Lake of Atitan-Conjectures as to its Origin, &c.-A Sail on the Lake-A dangerous Situa-
tion-A lofty Mountain Range-Ascent of the Mountains-Commanding View-Beautiful
Plain-An elevated Village-Ride along the Lake-Solola-Visit to Santa Cruz del
Quiché-Scenery on the Road - Barrancas-San Thomas-Whipping Posts-Plain of
Quiché-The Village- Ruins of Quiché-Its History -Desolate Scene-A facetious
Cura-Description of the Ruins-Plan -The Royal Palace -The Place of Sacrifice -An
Image-Two Heads, &c.-Destruction of the Palace recent-An Arch
-
319
CHAPTER XXVII.
Interior of a Convent-Royal Bird of Quiché-Indian Languages-The Lord's Prayer in the
Quiché Language-Numerals in the same-Church of Quiché-Indian Superstitions—
Another lost City-Tierra de Guerra-The Aborigines-Their Conversion to Christianity
-They were never conquered - A living City— Indian Tradition respecting this City-
Probably has never been visited by the Whites-Presents a noble Field for future Enter-
prise-Departure-San Pedro-Virtue of a Passport - A difficult Ascent-Mountain
Scenery-Totonicapan-An excellent Dinner-A Country of Aloes-"River of Blood "---
Arrival at Quezaltenango
339
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Quezaltenango-Account of it-Conversion of the Inhabitants to Christianity-Appearance
of the City-The Convent-Insurrection-Carrera's March from Quezaltenango -His
Treatment of the Inhabitants -Preparations for Holy Week-The Church-A Procession
-Good Friday - Celebration of the Resurrection-Opening Ceremony-The Crucifixion
-A Sermon-Descent from the Cross-Grand Procession-Church of Calvario-The case
of the Cura-Warm Springs of Almolonga.
CHAPTER XXIX.
Journey continued-A Mountain Plain-Lost Guides-A trying Moment-Aguas Calientes
-A magnificent View-Gold Ore-San Sebastiano-Gueguetenango-Sierra Madre -A
huge Skeleton-The Ruins - Pyramidal Structures -A Vault-Mounds -A welcome
Addition-Interior of a Mound-Vases-Ascent of the Sierra Madre-Buena Vista-The
Descent-Todos Santos-San Martin-San Andres Petapan-A Forest on Fire-Suffering
of the Mules from Swarms of Flies-San Antonio Guista.
348
360