are still the remains of cloisters, of the refectory, the locutorium, or conversation-room, and the calefactory. These, with the walls of some chapels, of the vestry, a hall, and of what is believed to have been a schoolhouse, are all the features of this noble edifice that can easily be traced; winding staircases within the surprising thickness of the walls, and door-cases involved in darkness and mystery, the place abounds with.

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*

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"The finest view of the ruin is on the east side, where, beyond the vast shattered frame that once contained a richly painted window, is seen a perspective of the choir and of distant arches, remains of the nave of the abbey, closed by the woods. This perspective of the ruin is said to be 287 feet in length; the choir part of it is in width only 28 feet inside, but the nave is 70; the walls, as they now stand, are 54 feet high; and in thickness five. Southward from the choir extends the still beautiful, though broken, pillars and arcades of some chapels, now laid open to the day; the chapter-house and cloisters, and beyond all, and detached from all, is the school-house, a large building, the only part of the monastery that still boasts of a roof.

"Of a quadrangular court on the west side of the church, 334 feet long and 102 feet wide, little vestige now appears, except the foundation of a range of cloisters that formed its western boundary, and under the shade of which the monks, on days of high solemnity, passed in their customary procession round the court. What was the belfrey is now a huge mass of detached ruin, picturesque from the loftiness of its shattered arches, and the high inequalities of the ground within them, where the tower that once crowned this building, having fallen, lies in vast fragments, now covered with earth and grass, and no longer distinguishable but by the hillock they form.

"The school-house, a heavy structure attached to

* A portion of the painted glass has been placed in the great window at Bowness Church, and a description of it is given in noticing that edifice.

the boundary wall on the south, is nearly entire, and the walls, particularly of the portal, are of enormous thickness; but here and there a chasm discloses the staircases that wind within them to the chambers above. The school-room below shows only a stone bench, that extends round the walls, and a low stone pillar on the eastern corner, on which the teacher's pulpit was formerly fixed. The lofty vaulted roof is scarcely distinguishable by the dusky light admitted through one or two narrow windows placed high from the ground, perhaps for the purpose of confining the scholar's attention to his book."

The abbot of Furness was endowed with great civil as well as ecclesiastical power. Throughout the district he was over all causes and all persons supreme. An oath of fealty and homage was administered to every tenant, to bear true allegiance to him against all men, except the King. He had the power in his criminal courts over life and death. He had the control over the military establishment, and every mesne lord was bound to contribute his quota of armed men at the abbot's summons. The wealth of the abbey was enormously great. The money-rents alone amounted, at the dissolution, to £946 a-year. Then there are to be taken into account the produce of lands retained in their own hands, the payments made by tenants in kind, shares of mines, salt-works, &c.

From HAWCOAT, a mile to the west of the abbey, there is a very extensive view, and from a height, immediately above the nightshade glen, one almost equally fine. "Description can scarcely suggest the full magnificence of such a prospect, to which the monks, emerging from their concealed cells below, occasionally resorted, to soothe the asperities which the severe discipline of superstition inflicted on the temper; or, freed from the observance of jealous eyes, to indulge, perhaps, the sigh of regret, which a consideration of the world they had renounced, thus gloriously given back to their sight, would sometimes awaken."

C

Two miles east of the abbey are the ruins of GLEASTON CASTLE, once a place of great strength. Three towers, with connecting walls enclosing a considerable area, still remain. This fortress was formerly the property of the Duke of Suffolk, father of Lady Jane Grey, both of whom were beheaded by Queen Mary. On a small island, in the channel between the main shore and the Isle of Walney, there is another ruined castle, called the Pile of Fouldrey, or more commonly Peel Castle. It was erected in the time of Edward III. by an abbot of Furness.

BROUGHTON AND THE DUDDON.

The nearest road from Ulverston to Broughton-inFurness (so called to distinguish it from Broughton-inCartmel), lies across Rath Moss; but the main carriage road traverses Kirkby Ireletth Moor, and is ten miles in length. At the Guide Post, two miles from Ulverston, Coniston Lake, surrounded by its mountains, is in sight. The moor we have just mentioned is then crossed, and the road proceeds, with many ascents and descents, frequently commanding fine views all the way to Broughton. Broughton is a small market-town, built on inclined ground: it has two inns, King's Head, and Old King's Head, both good for such an out-of-the-way place. The Tower is a residence placed at the top of a hill above the town. This is a convenient station for visiting BLACK COMBE, a hill commanding a very extensive view. Its summit is about six miles from both

Broughton and Bootle. If the tourist start from the former place, he has the choice of two roads. He may either follow the main road to Bootle, as far as Broadgate, and then take to the hill side; or he may pursue the fell road to Bootle, passing Duddon Grove, until he arrives at a stream that crosses the road, called Blackbeck. There is a sheepfold at this place, and he must now strike over the fell to the left.

The nearest road from Broughton to Seathwaite is

by Broughton Mills, but the most interesting is along the Bootle road for a short distance. It begins to ascend on leaving Broughton, and then descends to cross the Little. The river Duddon is only a little beyond. This is the stream that has been celebrated by Wordsworth in a series of sonnets, in which he describes, as most worthy of notice, the "liquid lapse serene" of the Duddon through the plain of Donnerdale; the Kirk of Ulpha; the view up the Duddon, from the point where the Seathwaite Brook joins it, at which place many huge stones interrupt the course of the water, and there is a tall rock on the right, called the Pen, and one on the opposite side, named Wallabarrow Crag; and the subsidiary vale of Seathwaite But all these things will come in order. The tourist must not cross Duddon Bridge, but must take the road on the right. That which he quits passes over Stoneside Fell to Bootle. The road by the river immediately climbs, by cottages and orchards, to a considerable elevation; and from its terrace Duddon Grove is seen amongst its beautiful grounds, and the Bootle road may be descried winding up the opposite hill. The common is entered about a mile and a half from Duddon Bridge, and scenery similar in character to that of Longsleddale is disclosed. From this point a distant hill, with a craggy top in the direction of the head of the vale, will pique the stranger's curiosity. After a while, Holm Cottage is seen on the right bank of the stream. Four miles from Broughton, the river is crossed at Ulpha Kirk (" to the pilgrim's eye as welcome as a star") and a rough road strikes over the fell to Eskdale. The view from the parapet of the bridge is good. Amongst the houses close by is a small inn. Soon after leaving Ulpha (pronounced Oopha), perhaps the finest coup d'œil in the whole valley presents itself. It is from a point on a. descent which the road makes a little beyond a Wesleyan chapel. Several hill screens are seen to enter the valley on either hand. Cove, a pointed hill, Blakerigg, Walna Scar, and Seathwaite Fell, are the most conspicuous elevations. The

river is again crossed at Donnerdale Bridge, and here is the junction of the Broughton Mills road. As we approach Newfield, the Duddon is seen to issue on the plain of Donnerdale, from a rent in a rocky screen, through which is caught another peep of the same distant hill that was visible at the common gate. This scene reminds the traveller of Kirchhet, in the vale of Hasli, Switzerland, only that is on a much larger scale. Hereabouts is Wallabarrow Crag. At Newfield, seven miles from Broughton, is a chapel, and an inn of the humblest kind. After passing this place, the road follows, for a short time, the stream from Seathwaite Tarn, and then crosses it at Nettleslack Bridge, to rejoin the Duddon, where the road by Walna Scar to Coniston deviates. The scenery about the bridge is very pleasing, and a pointed hill, called Birks, adds to the grandeur of the view. On reaching the bank of the Duddon, the view down the rent is striking. Two miles from Newfield is a fine precipice by the river, called Goldrill Crag. Green, the artist, mentions that an immense fragment of this crag fell, some years ago, in the night, upon the large stone that rises out of the bed of the river at its foot; and upon that very stone he and a friend of his had been sitting only a few hours previously. The noise made by the fall of rock alarmed the neighbouring shepherds, who did not discover, until the following morning, the cause of the awful sounds.

At the next bridge it is worth while to notice how industriously the water has scooped pots in the hard rock, and rounded off all the angles. One rock is completely perforated, and throws a small arch to the water. Here are pools eight or ten feet deep, and the water is wonderfully transparent. The valley now becomes wild and bare. Grey Friars is on the right, and Harter Fell on the left, whilst the rocks of Wrynose stand majestically in front. Some mines may be seen in the hill on the right. Cockley Beck Bridge, hard by the farm-houses of the same name, is soon reached; and at this place, we arrive at the road