in London, dispatches a hundred times the amount of affairs between the commodious hours of nine and six. The large rooms

in the Braunfels, are fitted up as show rooms and shops, like those of Exeter Change, loaded with merchandizes, showy and useful, from all quarters of Germany, Switzerland, Hungary, Bohemia, &c. as you are apprised by boards, with the name and domicile of every tradesman. Every vacant house, warehouse, or single room, in the busy neighbourhood of the Exchange, is hired by the foreign shopkeepers, for the exposition of their goods. The fairs, which had naturally declined during the obstructions of war, are gradually resuming their former alacrity. Frankfort, at other times, by no means lively, has, during the Fair, the cheerful aspect of a bustling trading city; the inns, the Theatre, the Casino, the Exchange, are thronged and lively; the streets present a respectable number of equipages; the stalls and shops are crowded by well dressed and handsome women; and though there are no extraordinary amusements, or objects of attraction for a mere spectator,

there is a life and variety in the scene, which gives it an interest.

The Casino at Frankfort, one of the most splendid in Germany, is a noble establishment, occupying one of the handsomest mansions in the city, and furnishing all the literary or political journals of Germany, besides the newspapers of almost all Europe. The order, luxury, and convenience of the arrangements, might tempt the most listless reader. Billiard tables and card rooms find a place in the suite of apartments, which are fitted up with elegance; and present, amongst other agrémens, handsome carpets-luxuries confined in Germany to Courts, and the houses of a very few individuals.

The merchants of Frankfort are resolved. not to be behind their princely neighbours, in giving their city the attraction of the Fine Arts. A rich banker, M. Städel, has lately bequeathed a sum of above 100,000% sterling, for the foundation of an Academy, together with a respectable collection, containing some morsels of the Flemish school, of considerable merit. His will is litigated by his family; but it is probable, that

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THE REIGN OF THE PRINCE PRIMATE.

civic troop, of about 5 or 600 men, besides a militia of about 3000; and the mercantile commonwealth is ostensibly established on the same footing, as in its old Imperial days. But the free

cities are elements of the old constitution, which are, I fear, little calculated to survive it in their former flourishing condition. As long as the Empire existed, their dependence on its head procured the defenceless commonwealth a protection against powerful and despotic neighbours: their gold cementing their friendly union with the Imperial House — but who are the worthy burghers of Frankfort to look to now in times of oppressionmore likely to occur since their quiet ecclesiastical neighbours have been wiped away, to make room for keen military sovereigns, ever on the watch for aggrandizement ?

As far as I could learn, the government of the Baron Dalberg, Prince Primate of the Rhenish Confederation, and Grand Duke of Frankfort, was by no means unpopular in the city. The impositions were nearly the same as at present, and an ex

BUONAPARTE AND THE PRINCE PRIMATE. 61

pensive Court produced a circulation of money and a bustle and show which help to content people as much as solid advantages. The visits of Napoleon to his crowned minion, were to be sure rather redoubtable to the good merchants. On one occasion, the happy event of his arrival was announced by an order for a forced loan of an immense sum of florins. The simple Dalberg thought the sum intended for him, and began to beseech his munificent master not to load him with a superfluous bounty. Napoleon departed and left his General to execute his orders. The city sent deputies to Paris with petitions and remonstrances, who returned with the usual success. Prince Primate is described as a weak man of talents and literary acquirements, more expert as an author than as a sovereign. His family is one of the most ancient and considerable in Germany. An office at the coronation was always filled by one of them, whom the Emperor demanded by calling out, "Is there no Dalberg here?" The Prince Primate had been originally Coadjutor, that is, Arch

The

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FRANKFORT CITIZENS.

bishop elect of Mayence. On the destruction of the Ecclesiastical Electorate he was made Bishop of Ratisbon, and Prince Primate of the Empire. Here Napoleon found him a ready tool for accomplishing his alliance with the German Princes; and for his eminent services, rewarded him with the Grand Duchy of Frankfort, Aschaffenburg, and a territory in the neighbourhood, besides other gifts. His brother is attached to the royalists in France, and has been created Duke Dalberg, by Louis XVIII.

Notwithstanding the sufferings of Frankfort, in the late war, I could not discover among the citizens with whom I conversed, that satisfaction at their present tranquillity which might have been anticipated. I have even observed in some a regret, but half concealed, of the past days of war and activity. They had then a Court, Generals, Staff, and troops. The French army, since the revolution, have generally been well supplied with money, from the General to the private. They spent freely, and conducted themselves tolerably well-is the general account given