of these hills were seen immense caverns and excavations, but whether natural or artificial could not be determined. The mouths of the caves appeared blackened as if by smoke; which suggested the thought that they might be the haunts of robbers. The Jabbok was found to be a small stream, trickling down a deep and wide torrent bed. The water was sweet, but the stones upon the bare exposed bank, and the leaves of the ghurrah trees that were there in abundance, were coated with salt; a deposition of the atmosphere, doubtless brought by the wind from the Dead Sea, which is about twenty miles distant. A second bed, at that time (April 17) dry, indicated that, in the floods, the stream enters the Jordan by two mouths.*

Just below the Jabbok, the party saw a wild boar crossing the river. This fierce and voracious animal is very common in the Ghor and the valleys that open into it. They issue from the woods at night and commit great havoc in the fields and vineyards, trampling and tearing down even more than they devour:-" the boar out of the wood doth waste it." Burckhardt was informed that the Arabs of the Ghor are unable to cultivate the common barley, on account of the eagerness with which the wild swine feed on it; they are therefore obliged to grow a less esteemed sort, which the hogs are too dainty to touch. Irby and Mangles once saw a valley grubbed up in all directions in furrows by the wild boars; so that the soil had all the appearance of having been literally ploughed up. The boars grow to a very large size, are of a dingy yellowish grey, or blackish hue, and of *The Jordan and Dead Sea, p. 253.

FORESTS OF GILEAD.

249

a most unprepossessing appearance. They are bold and desperate, and their tusks make them formidable adversaries.

The character of the land of Gilead, through whose ravines and chasms the Jabbok darkling flows, is similar to that already described as marking the hills of Bashan. The traveller who climbs the heights from the sultry vale of the Jordan, or from the arid plains of the Hauran, hails with pleasure the refreshing coolness of the mountain breeze; he reclines under the grateful shade of the oak and wild pistachio, which form thick groves and forests impervious to the sun; while the sylvan scenery everywhere reminds him of that of Europe. The charm of this pleasant region is increased by the ceaseless songs and other voices of birds, sounds which are little

heard in the parched and treeless plains. Travellers speak with delight of "the cooing of the woodpigeons, the calling of partridges,--magnificent birds, as large as pheasants,-the incessant hum of insects, and the hiss of grasshoppers, [probably tree-hoppers, Cicade, are meant,] singing in the trees as happy as kings." The prospect from the elevated peaks is of the most sublime extent, reaching from the snowy summits of Lebanon and Hermon on the north, to the hills of Judah and the mountains of Edom on the south; looking over the Lake of Tiberias and the Dead Sea, and the whole breadth of Palestine in front, the vast horizon bounded by the Mediterranean, like a band of polished steel girding half the landscape.

On the bank of this river, and as well as can be judged, near the middle of that portion of its course which lies through the mountains of Gilead, occurred a memorable incident in the history of the patriarch Jacob. Many years before, the indignation of his brother Esau at his having procured, by a successful falsehood, his father's blessing, had compelled Jacob to flee into Padan-aram, where still dwelt the descendants of Nahor. There he had resided for twenty years; and now with his two wives and a large family of children and servants, and much wealth in cattle, he is on his way back to the land of Canaan. But as he approaches the country of Seir, the territory of Esau, fear of his brother's resentment overwhelms him; and in much anxiety of mind he takes the most prudent precautions to mollify him. He first of all sends a respectful message, announcing his return, in which he delicately mentions the wealth that he had acquired; that Esau may not suppose

that he is still a needy adventurer ready to put in his claim for the possession of that birthright which he had so unworthily obtained. By the expressions carefully selected, "my lord,-my lord Esau,—thy servant Jacob, that I may find grace in thy sight,' -he would also express his readiness to waive for the present and in his own person, the dominion over his brother, which had been part of the stolen blessing. Probably, also, he had learned that the value of that blessing and of that birthright was rather spiritual than temporal; and its range rather national than personal.

The news which Jacob's messenger brought back,that Esau was coming to meet him with four hundred men, was well calculated to appal him; for we cannot doubt that the first intention of the bold hunter was to avenge the wrong which the mention of his brother's name had vividly recalled to his memory. Jacob's resource is in prayer. He does not neglect prudential means, it is true, but setting apart a princely present of two hundred she-goats and twenty he-goats, two hundred ewes and twenty rams, thirty milch camels with their colts, forty kine and ten bulls, twenty she-asses and ten foals,-he divides them into three droves, separating them rather widely to produce a greater effect, and sends them by the hands of prudent servants, with a most submissive and respectful message, to appease his angry brother. But his last and best resource is in prayer; having brought his whole company over the Jabbok, he returns across the ford to pass the night in fervent pleading with God.

Solemn indeed is the scene! Midnight has thrown

her sable wing over the lone valley, into which the stars can shed but few and feeble rays, almost entirely shut out as they are by the tall cliffs that tower up on each side. Silence is all around, broken only by the earnest supplications and intercessions, the groans, and cries, and stifled sobs, that burst from the anxious Jacob. His pleadings are most instructive, for he takes hold of God's own covenant and promises, presenting nothing of his own but unworthiness; but again and again reminding Jehovah of his gracious assurances of blessing, and making use of past mercies as a plea for future ones. "And Jacob said, O God of my father Abraham, and God of my father Isaac, the LORD which saidst unto me, Return unto thy country, and to thy kindred, and I will deal well with thee: I am not worthy of the least of all the mercies, and of all the truth, which thou hast showed unto thy servant: for with my staff I passed over this Jordan, and now I am become two bands. Deliver me, I pray thee, from the hand of my brother, from the hand of Esau: for I fear him, lest he will come and smite me, and the mother with the children. And thou saidst, I will surely do thee good, and make thy seed as the sand of the sea, which cannot be numbered for multitude."

The night is far spent, and Jacob has as yet received no sensible token that he is accepted; but his Father hath seen in secret. At length there appears one in human form, and engages in wrestling with him, but prevails not against him;—a symbolic action, to express the need and success of importunate prayer. There is no sort of contention that so brings out strength, activity, watchfulness, patience and per