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are left to you for the acquisition of knowledge, and the fulfilment of duties pregnant with the dearest interests. Sooth their care, reward their toil, secure
and your equality, nay more, your superiority, will be felt, if not acknowledged, by all who owe their felicity to you.
But here am I advising my sex on their true interests, instead of noticing the Souvenirs of Modena.
Few places have evinced, in former times, a greater love of science, or furnished a more appalling example to what crimes its votaries may be urged. Witness the terrible parricide committed by the brothers Grillenzone, in 1518, as related by Muratori.
The brothers Grillenzone were seven in number, and all dwelt beneath the paternal roof. Devoted to science, and fondly attached to each other, the father wished them to go forth in search of professious; and they, in order to avoid a separation, determined on his death. These brothers assembled at their house all the persons who, like themselves, were devoted to learning, and employed masters to lecture on, and explain the subjects of their studies. The meetings soon led to the formation of an academy; and Modena owes to these parricides an obligation that must have entitled them to her gratitude, were the recollection of it not stained by their fearful crime.
The Rangoni family, too, did much for the advancement of literature at Modena, and many were
the savants and distinguished writers who cast a lustre on this now comparatively secluded and deserted town, in which people are more occupied at present in manufacturing food for the body, in the shape of sausages, which are said to vie in excellence with those of Bologna, than in providing food for the mind.
REGGIO.—The aspect of Reggio is very different from the generality of Italian towns. Cheerful and scrupulously clean, it invites the traveller to sojourn in it; and the appearance of its inhabitants harmonizes with the place, as they look gay and animated.
. Reggio gave birth to Ariosto, a fact of which our cicerone did not fail to remind us before he had accompanied us half through the first street.
It is curious to observe the pride that such people take in their celebrated men, and with which they refer to the places of their birth. They do not mention it calmly and dispassionately as a piece of information, but name it as something to occasion exultation. I like this enthusiasm, it is an incitement, as well as a reward to genius; and is of all vanities the most blameless.
The cathedral contains some good pictures by Guercino and Palma, and fine sculpture by Clementi, a native of Reggio, said to have been a pupil of Michael Angelo.
The church of the Madonna della Ghiara is a noble edifice, and boasts some clever paintings,
the work of a native artist named Ferrari, Ludovico
a Carraccio, Spada, and Palma.
The library is very extensive, and is rich in books of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and a collection of the works of the authors of Reggio. The theatre might put to shame those of the most considerable cities in other countries, being not only of a size peculiarly well calculated for the accommodation of a large audience, but also for scenic effect.
PARMA.—Silent, gloomy, and deserted, Parma seems to offer a striking picture of the altered fortunes of its mistress. There still hangs around it the semblance of grandeur, but it is grandeur “fallen from its high estate :" and on beholding its empty streets, and decaying buildings, one cannot refrain from pitying her who was once empress of the gayest and most brilliant capital in the world, for being condemned to reside here, and support the mimic form of regal splendour shorn of all its dignity. The fate of Napoleon, chained Prometheuslike on his ocean rock, had a sublimity in it: but she who shared his throne, whose brow was encircled by a diadem, before which the proudest monarchs bowed, to be reduced to hold her state in this poor town.—0! it is pitiful! and Maria Louisa must have less pride or more philosophy than falls to the share of most of her sex, to be enabled to support it with such equanimity.
We went over the ducal Palace to-day, which has nothing regal about it; and no greater number of apartments than generally appertain to the residence of a private individual. Its appearance is mean and common-place, divested of dignity or good taste. The furniture, is like that of a Fermier-General de France, after long use, rich, tasteless, and faded.
The carriage of Lord and Lady Burghersh was at the entrance, and the custode who shewed us over the apartments, reverted with no little complacency to the fact, that “the ambassador Inglese, and the niece of the great Wellington, were then sitting with Maria Louisa!”
In a lumber-room was shown us the toilette presented to the Empress of France, and the cradle given to the King of Rome, by the city of Paris ! As ill did this mean and vulgar apartment seem fitted to enshrine these costly gifts, the wrecks of an empire unparalleled in history, as did the palace itself to be the residence of her who has been mistress of France !
There was the subject of a whole epic poem, and more touching than most of such productions are, in the contemplation of these trophies of the former state of Maria Louisa. There was the toilette meant to adorn the person of her whom all France delighted to honour. Once lodged in a gilded chamber of the Thuilleries, with proud and titled dames surrounding it, to deck their royal mistress, now, neglected and covered with dust, it was put aside in a lumber
room ; and exhibited by a custode, who was little conscious that by this venal display of it, he elicited observations far from favourable to its owner. And there stood the cradle given by the capital of France to him whose birth was hailed with such universal rejoicings; the child, whose coming into the world was looked upon as the security of that dynasty doomed so soon afterwards to be overthrown. That rich and gorgeous cradle in which slumbered, uncon scious of the fate which awaited him, that fair boy over whose pillow Napoleon has bent in rapture, forgetting the fierceness of the warrior in the all-absorbing tenderness of the father, there it stood, tarnished and dimmed, to be scrutinized by strangers for the payment of a few francs !
If the fallen empress, to gratify curiosity, or to enrich her menial, could allow the gift made to her in her palmy days, to be thus exhibited, surely the heart of the mother ought to have protected from desecration the infant couch of her son ; over which, the great, the wondrous, and the since fallen father of that ill-starred child had often stooped to impress the kiss of melting affection on the fair cheek of his sleeping cherub! Ought not this cradle to have been placed in some chamber sacred to the memory of that father, whose heart yearned with such tenderness towards the wife and child he knew he should never see again ?—that husband whose lips never uttered a reproach at the desertion of her, who having shared his splendour, could leave him when