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every purpose of re-equipment might be served. At some places na. tural wharfs are formed by the rocks, and eight and ten fathoms water close to them. Ships might lie alongside these places, or might heave down by them : there are also shallow spots on which ships might be careened. Many of the cliffs are hollowed into caves, which would answer for storehouses ; and in the numerous lawns on both sides, encampments might be formed of any number of people.'
Their intercourse with the people was but slight; access was obtained to one of the villages, and they had an opportunity of examining a very neat and comfortable farm; two bandsome bay ponies stood in the stable, the pig-sty and poultry-house were well stocked, and there was every appearance of ease and prosperity. In the centre of this village
• stood a building like a temple, surrounded by a stone wall. It was filled with elegant vases of different shapes and sizes, closed up and ranged in rows on the floor ; the verandah encircling the build.
' ing was also covered with vases. According to the account of the natives, the remains of the dead are deposited in these jars. Round the building bamboo poles were placed so as to lean against the thatched roof, having notches cut in them, to which bundles of flowers were hung, some fresh, others decayed, apparently funereal offerings; but their exact import Mr. Clifford was not able to learn. The elegant shape of the vases, and the tasteful way in which they were arranged, with the flowers hanging all round, gave to this cemetery an air of cheerfulness, which we are in the habit of thinking unsuitable to a depository of the dead.'
Another village, which they were permitted to examine, presented the same aspect of elegance and convenience. The streets were regularly disposed and carefully swept ; the dwellings were separated from one another by fences, and each was shaded by its own little grove. In one part they found large houses, in which there were persons writing, who behaved with great courtesy, and gave them tea and cakes. In front of the village, towards the water, stood a splendid avenue thirty feet ( wide.' The lofty trees which formed it, mingling their foliage, effectually excluded the sunbeams; and beneath them wooden benches and stone seats were placed at intervals. This richly ornamented spot is surrounded by high hills, one extremity of which is precipitous and over-hanging. In this part they discovered a cemetery which formed a perfect contrast to that which has been before described. In the face of the rock, where its summit projects considerably beyond its base, a horizontal gallery of great length has been formed, and in a number of small square excavations, in the side of this main shaft, stand the vases which contain the last relics of mortality. This laboriously constructed charnel-house is eight or ten yards from the ground, and was thrown into deep and awful gloom by the brush-wood which concealed it below, and by the trees and
creeping plants which bung down from the edge of the projecting rock.
Among the visitants of the ships, there were of course some whose characters recommended them more strongly than others, to the good opinion and friendship of our countrymen. Of these by far the most striking individual was a person whose name was Nadera. This very extraordinary man presented bimself, at first, merely as one of the crowd; he mixed with the sailors, and distinguished bimself by his readiness in adapting himself to European customs, and by his eagerness, and ability in the acquisition of the English language. About three weeks only after the arrival of the vessels, he brought from Capt. Maxwell a message to the Lyra, correctly expressed and readily understood. Many of the natives, indeed, were sufficiently dexterous in catching the more common words of our language. Their errors in pronunciation were precisely such as we meet with in our own children; and we suspect that a little more practice in the business of elementary instruction, would have enabled their tutors to set them more speedily right. The curiosity of Madera, however, was of a much higher kind than that of the natives in general ; when, at their request, Lieut. Clifford read aloud to them, they were satisfied with the mere sounds, but Madera was restless, and anxious to comprehend their import.
. Madera is about twenty-eight years of age, of a slender figure, and very active; his upper teeth project in front over the lower ones, giving his face a remarkable, but not a disagreeable expression. He is always cheerful, and often lively and playful, but his good sense prevents his ever going beyond the line of strict propriety. When required by etiquette to be grave, no one is so immoyeably serious as Madera, and when mirth rules the hour, he is the gayest of the gạy ; such indeed is his taste on these occasions, that he not only catches the outward tone of his company, but really appears to think and feel as they do. His enterprising spirit and versatility of talent have led him to engage in a number of pursuits; his success, however, is the most remarkable in his acquisition of English. About a month after our arrival, he was asked what had become of his companion Anya; he replied, “ Anya, him mother sick, he go him mother house;" and when asked if he would return, he said, “ Two, three day time, him mother no sick, he come ship.” With all these endowments and attainments he is unaffectedly modest, and never seems aware of his being superior to the rest of his countrymen. . We were a long time in doubt what was his real rank; for at first he kept bimself back, so that he was well known to the midshipmen, before the officers were at all acquainted with him; he gradually came forward, and though he always wore the dress of the ordinary respectable natives, his manners evidently belonged to a higher rank; but he never associated with the chiefs, and disclaimed having any pretensions to an equality with them. Notwithstanding all this, there were occasional circumstances, which, by shewing his authority, almost
betrayed his secret. One morning a difficulty arose about some supplies which the chiefs had engaged to procure, but which they had neglected to send; as soon as Madera was told of the circumstance, he went to Captain Maxwell, and undertook to arrange it to his satisfaction, at the same time begging that if any difficulty occurred in future, he might be applied to. Whatever may be Madera's rank in his own society, it is highly curious to discover in a country so circumstanced, the same politeness, self-denial, and gracefulness of behaviour, which the experience of civilized nations has pointed out as constituting the most pleasing and advantageous form of intercourse.
• The great interest which Madera took in the English, and the curiosity be always expressed about our customs at home, suggested the idea of taking him with us to England, where he would have been an interesting specimen of a people so little known; and he also might have carried back knowledge of the greatest use to his country. When it was proposed to him, he paused for some minutes, and then, shaking his head, said, “I go Injeree,-father, mother, childs, wife, house, all cry! not go; no, no, all cry!' pp. 157, 158.
On the 19th of October, a dinner and entertainment were given by Capt. Maxwell, and as their little festival, exhibited much of the amiable and simple, yet acute and observant character of the Loo-chooers, we shall be somewhat minute in our account of the circumstances connected with it. The chiefs only were invited, but Madera,' who probably knew that he would • be very welcome, put himself in Capt. Maxwell's way just • before dinner, and was prevailed upon, after a little persuasion, ' to remain.' The greatest variety of dishes which the genius of the ship's cook could devise, and his materials enable him to supply, was served up on this occasion, and the guests did ainple justice both to the cookery and confectionary; with the latter, in particular, they were highly pleased. The variety of the wines greatly surprised them, and they not only ate freely,' but, though they made some little complaint of the potency of the wines, and the size of the glasses, tasted every thing, from 'punch to chainpagne.' Madera acted, among his countrymen, as master of the ceremonies. Observing one of the chiefs eating bam without mustard, he called to Capt. Maxwell's servant, and pointing to Jeema, said, “ Tom, take mustard to him.' When they rose from table, after sun-set, to depart, they were detained by Capt. M. and in the midst of the explanations, difficuities, and persuasions, which were in question between the inviters and the guests,
. Madera kept his seat, and looked about him in his keen observant way, to discover, if he could, what was likely to be the issue of this adventure. Having observed that in general we were anxious to keep our company at table as long as we could, he naturally enough thought that we would not let this opportunity pass of entertaining the chiefs according to our fashion. He appeared to have settled this question with himself just as the chiefs resumed their seats, for rising half off his chair, and with a mixture of archness and sim. plicity, as if he had made an amusing discovery, cried out in English, “When all drunk then go ashore !
Though, in this instance, he was not right in his conjecture, yet we cannot forbear, however mal apropos our seriousness may appear to some, to express our mortification and disgust at this peculiarly offensive trait of English hospitality. The sots of oiher nations are satisfied with being drunk themselves, but it is our shameful distinction that we employ every possible artifice to make others partakers of our immoral excess. We trust, however, that this detestable practice is losing ground among us. Capt. Maxwell, we are happy to say, was not solicitous to intoxicate his guests; bis object, though he probably carried bis notions on this point somewhat further than we should be disposed to venture, was to give, to the best of his means, a fair idea of a hospitable and jovial English entertainment; four bumper toasts only were given, and it was then intimated to the visiters, that they might pass the bottle if they pleased. They now felt themselves quite at ease, played several of their eative games, and exhibited the movements of a Loo-choo dance, round the table. In the dance, Madera was the leader ; bis carriage was graceful, and his dancing elegant, though fantastic; he sang in accordance with his motions, and his companions joined in the chorus. In the mean time, a variation of the same scene was preparing for them without, and they were requested to leave the cabin.
• The ship was illuminated, and the sailors were dancing on the upper deck. The chiefs were much pleased with this scene, which was lively enough. After watching the dance of the sailors for a few minutes, Mádera, who, to use a common phrase, “ was up to every thing.' ran among the sailors, and seizing one of them by the shoulders, put him out of the dance, took his place, and kept up the reel with the same spirit, and exactly in the same style and step as the sailors. The other dances were left off, and the whole ship's company assembling round Madera, cheered and clapped him till the dance was done. The chiefs joined in the applause, seeming no less surprised than ourselves at Madera's skill, for his imitation of the sailors' odd steps and gestures was as exact as if he had lived amongst seamen all his life. The officers then danced a country dance, after which the chiefs, unasked, and with a sort of intuitive politeness, svhich rendered every thing they did appropriate, instantly stepped forward and danced several times round the quarter-deck, to the infinite gratification of the sailors.
On returning to the cabin to tea, they were all in high spirits, and while amusing themselves with a sort of wrestling game, Ookooma, who had seen us placing ourselves in sparring attitudes, threw himself suddenly into the boxer's position of defence, assuming at the same
time a fierceness of look which we had never before seen in any of them. The gentleman to whom he addressed himself, thinking that Ookooma wished to spar, prepared to indulge him; but Madera's quick eye saw what was going on, and by a word or two made him instantly resume his wonted sedateness. We tried in vain to make Madera explain what were the magical words which he had used to Ookooma. He appeared anxious to turn our thoughts from the subject, by saying, “ Loo-choo man no fight; Loo-choo man right, no fight, no good, no, no. Ingerish very good, yes, yes, yes; Loochoo man no fight.” Possibly he considered that "Ookooma was taking too great a liberty ; or, perhaps, he thought even the semblance of fighting unsuitable with the strict amity subsisting between us.
• Before they went away, Captain Maxwell, who had remarked the satisfaction with which the chiefs received any attention shewn to their children, ordered a large cake to be brought him, which he divided into portions for the family of each. The chiefs were in a proper mood to feel this kindness, and they expressed themselves, as may be supposed, very warmly upon the occasion. When they put off for the shore they began singing, and never left off till they landed.
On the 23d, a personage of much higher rank than those who had hitherto visited the ships, was announced, and about noon the Heir-apparent of the Loo-choo monarchy came on board, preceded by his visiting card, written on a slip of crimson paper, about four feet long and one foot in breadth. He conducted himself with great courtesy and good breeding, and some trifling negotiations which were transacted between him and Capt. Max. well, were completed much to his satisfaction. The principal of these related to admission to the royal presence, which Capt. M. had been anxious to obtain, but waived it instantly when the Prince stated that it was contrary to the custom of Loo-choo. The person of his Highness was altogether prepossessing, and his mapaers were ' genteel and sedate, though occasionally constrained ; he was supposed to be about fifty years of age. It was during this visit that the high rank of Madera was fully ascer, tained; he now came, for the first time, in the costume of a nobleman, took precedence of the other chiefs, and while they displayed great embarrassment in the presence of the Prince, and knelt whenever they addressed him, Madera maintained a respectful but easy deportment, and addressed him as if accus• tomed to his society. The Prince, too, often consulted Ma. dera, and listened to him with great attention, but it did not appear whether he owed this distinction to his rank, or whether it was the result of his superiority of talent. When the royal guest took his leave, Madera came again on board, and en
tered with great good humour into all the jokes which were * made upon his new character,' Two or three days after this,
grand entertainment was given op shore, at which the Prince presided.