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that he was fully aware alike of the great importance of his mission, and of the formidable dangers which he had to encounter, in carrying it into execution.

After due consideration, it was at length finally determined, that the expedition should consist of Park himself, his wife's brother, Mr. Alexander Anderson, who was to be next in authority to him, and Mr. George Scott, who was to act as draftsman, together with a few boat-builders and artificers from the dock-yards. They were not to be accompanied in the first instance by any troops from England; but were to be joined at Goree, by a certain number of the African corps, stationed in that garrison, selected from such as might be disposed to volunteer for the service. These arrangements being made, Park a third time, left his retirement for London.

On leaving Fowlshiels the last time, Mr. Park was extremely affected, and would not venture to trust his own feelings or those of his family, with a formal parting. He left them as with the intention of returning, alledging that he had particular business at Edinburgh, from whence he sent them his final farewell. Mr. Walter Scott, from whom Park's biographer received some interesting notices, describes in strong and moving terms, the manner of his last parting with him. Before Mr. Park finally quitted his mother's residence at Fowlshiels, he paid a farewell visit to Mr. Scott, and passed a night in the Poet's cottage at Ashesteil. The next morning, his host accompanied him part of the way on his return to the paternal farm, and they rode together over the wild chain of pastoral hills which divide the Tweed from the Yarrow. Park talked much of his new African expedition, and mentioned his determination of going straight from Edinburgh, without returning to take leave of his family. They were then on the top of William-ridge, a lofty hill which overlooks the course of the Yarrow; and the autumnal mist which floated heavily and slowly down the valley, presented to Mr. Scott's imagination a striking emblem of the troubled and uncertain prospect which Park's undertaking afforded. An interesting conversation occupied the two friends till they passed the hills, and came to a road where it had been agreed they should separate. A small ditch divided the moor from the road; and, in going over it, Park's horse stumbled and nearly fell. "I am afraid Mungo," said Mr. Scott, that is a bad omen;" to which he answered, smiling, "freits (i. e. omens) follow those who look to them." With this proverbial expression, and afraid of a formal adieu, he rode away, and was speedily out of sight.

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On the 30th of January, 1805, after having sustained, as usual, a painful delay of two months, Park and his little com

pany

pany set sail from Portsmouth, in the Crescent transport, and arrived in health and good spirits at Goree, on the 28th of March. Writing from this Fort, to the under Secretary of State, he says,

"I immediately went ashore, and having delivered the dispatches to Major Lloyd, consulted with him respecting the proper encouragement to be given to the troops. We agreed that nothing would be so great an inducement as double pay during the journey, and a discharge on their return. A garrison order to this effect was accordingly made out; and in the course of a few days almost every soldier in the fort had volunteered his services. Lieutenant Martyn of the Royal Artillery corps, having likewise volunteered, I thought it of consequence to have an officer who was acquainted with the men, and who could assist me in choosing such as were best able to bear fatigue. On the morning of the 6th of April, we embarked the men, in number thirty-five. They jumped into the boats in the highest spirits, and bade adieu to Goree with repeated huzzas. I believe every man in the garrison would have embarked with great cheerfulness; but no inducement could prevail on a single negro to accompany me, I must, therefore, trust to the Gambia for interpreters, and I expect to be able to hire or purchase three or four in going up the river."

Having passed a few days at Kayee, a small town on the Gambia, where Park engaged Isaaco to serve as his guide, on the 27th of April, the caravan commenced its march into the interior. Here the journal begins, and supplies us with the few remaining incidents which make up the history of this ilk fated mission. On the 11th of May, he reached Madina, the capital of the kingdom of Woolli; and already that dreadful dis ease which in the end swept off the majority of the party, had begun its ravages. On the 8th two soldiers fell ill of dysentery; and about the 15th, when they were again approaching the Gambia, at Kussai, one died of epilepsy. Departing from this town, Isaaco, who was at once a travelling merchant and a priest, performed a religious ceremony. At the entrance of the woods, he laid a black ram across the road, and cut its throat, having first said a long prayer over it. "This," says Mr. Park," he cons dered as very essential to our success. The flesh of the animal was given to the slaves at Kussai, that they might pray in their hearts for our prosperity.”

On the 26th, the caravan experienced a singular accident, altmost unintelligible to a European, from the attack of a large swarm of bees; in consequence of which, besides that many of the people were most severely stung, seven of their beasts of burden either perished or were lost; and owing to an accidental fire which was kindled in the confusion, the whole baggage was

near

fear being burnt. In fact, for half an hour, it seemed as if the bees had put an end to the expedition.

In the journal, under date May 29, is the following entry: "In the forenoon had an opportunity of sending two letters home to England, via Gambia." These communications have been fortunately preserved, the one addressed to Sir Joseph Banks, and the other to Mrs. Park, of which we quote the latter, as giving the best picture of his feelings and hopes.

"I am happy to inform you that we are half through our journey, without the smallest accident or unpleasant circumstance. We all of us keep our health, and are on the most friendly terms with the natives. I have seen many of my old acquaintances, and am everywhere well received. By the 27th of June, we expect to have finished our travels by land; and, when we have once got afloat on the river, we shall conclude that we are embarking for England. I have never had the smallest sickness; and Alexander is quite free from all his stomach complaints.

"The bearer of this to the Gambia is waiting with his asses for a few minutes only; you will, therefore, inform all friends that we are well, and going on prosperously. I see no reason to think that our stay in the interior will be longer than I at first men tioned.

"We carry our victuals with us, and live very well; in fact, we have only had a pleasant journey, and yet this is what we thought would be the worst part of it.

"I will indulge the hope that my wife, children, and all friends are well. I am in great hopes of finishing this journey with credit in a few months; and then with what joy shall I turn my face towards home! The Slatee is waiting for the letter, and I have only time to subscribe myself, &c."

Park's situation at the date of the above letter was much more critical than he imagined, or rather, perhaps, than he chose to confess to his wife. The tornadoes had already commenced, announcing the near approach of the rainy season. On the 10th of June, accordingly, a violent rain inundated the country, the effect of which on the health of his companions was almost instantaneous. Twelve of the soldiers were taken dangerously ill, and from this date the great mortality begun, which ulti timately proved fatal to the whole. Mr. Park describes the condition of the caravan, aud his own disappointment, in the following pathetic terms.

"The tornado, which took place on our arrival (at Shrondo had an instant effect on the health of the soldiers, and proved to us to be the beginning of sorrow. I had proudly flattered myself that we should reach the Niger with a very moderate loss; we had

bad

had two men sick of the dysentery; one of them recovered completely on the march, and the other would doubtless have recovered, had he not been wet by the rain at Baniserile. But now the rain had set in, and I trembled to think that we were yet only half way through our journey. The rain had not commenced three minutes before many of the soldiers were affected with a vomiting; others fell asleep, and seemed as if half intoxicated. I felt a strong inclination to sleep during the storm; and as soon as it was over, I fell asleep on the wet ground, although I used every exertion to keep myself awake. The soldiers likewise fell asleep on the wet bundles."

Two days journey further on, our traveller was agreeably surprised with a landscape, rather seldom to be seen in that part of Africa, which combined magnificence and fertility with the appearance of security and comfort. We allude to the mountainous country in the district of Dandikoo.

"We were surprised," says he, "to find the hill cultivated to the very summit; and, though the people of Dandikoo were but preparing their fields, the corn on the hill was six inches high. The villages on these mountains are romantic beyond anything I ever saw. They are built in the most delightful glens of the mountains; they have plenty of water and grass at all seasons; they have cattle enough for their own use, and their superfluous grain purchases all their luxuries; and, while the thunder rolls in awful grandeur over their heads, they can look from their tremendous precipices over all that wild and woody plain, which extends from the Falema to the Black River. There are no lions on the hills though they are numerous in the plain."

The difficulties attending the march became every day more pressing; the rains became heavier and more constant, and the number of deaths increased. On the 6th of July, the whole party, with but one exception, were either actually sick, or in a state of great debility; and, in consequence of this, it was not until the 19th of August, after enduring more suffering and anxiety, than it has fallen to the lot of almost any other traveller to experience, that Park reached the Niger at Bambakoo.

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"This," observes his biographer, was more than seven weeks beyond the time upon which he had calculated, when he quitted the Gambia; and the effects of this protracted march, which had carried him far into the rainy season, were unfortunately but too apparent. Of the Europeans who composed the expedition, consisting of about forty at the time of quitting the Gambia, there were now only eleven survivors. Of these the principal persons, besides Park, namely Mr. Anderson, Mr. Scott, and Lieutenant Martyn, were all more or less affected by the disease; the two former very seriously, and Mr. Scott, in parti

cular

tular, to so great a degree that he had been obliged to remain behind. He died shortly afterwards without reaching the Niger.

In his first journey, as every one knows, Park had been treated in rather an ambiguous manner by the King of Bambarra, who positively declined to see him, or even to allow him to remain in Sego, the capital of his dominions, and yet sent him a considerable present by the hands of a guide, who was to direct him on his way. Wishing, on the present occasion, to secure from Mansong, who was still the ruling sovereign, a free passage through his dominions, and such other facilities as might enable him to prosecute his journey into the interior, he dispatched Isaaco, a few days after they had gained the river, to act as his minister at Sego in this important negociation.

After a good deal of uncertainty on the part of the Europeans, and no small show of diplomatical ingenuity on the side of the Africans, the king's answer was at length permitted to reach the ears of our traveller, in these words.

"Mansong says he will protect you; that a road is open for you, as far as his hand (power) extends. If you wish to go to the East, no man shall harm you from Sego till you pass Tombuctoo. If you wish to go to the West, you may travel through Fooladoo and Manding, through Kasson and Boudon; the name of Mansong's stranger will be a sufficient protection for you. If you wish to build your boats at Samee or Sego, at Sansanding or Jinnu, name the town, and Mansong will convey you thither."

Mr. Park made choice of Sansanding; to which place the king, who would not allow him to purchase, sent him two canoes at different times, both of which were so miserably decayed, that they were quite unfit for the projected voyage down the Niger. Nothing therefore remained for our hero, but to join the best -half of the second to the best half of the first; and thus, with the assistance of Abraham Bolton, a private soldier, and at the expence of eighteen days hard labour, he changed the Bambarra canoe into His Majesty's Schommer Joliba.

In the midst of these preparations, he had the misfortune to lose his brother-in-law, Mr. Anderson, who died on the 28th of October, after a sickness of four months.

"I feel much inclined," says Park, "to speak of his merits; but as his worth was known only to a few friends, I will rather che rish his memory in silence, than weary my friends with a panegyric in which they cannot be supposed to join. I shall only observe, that no event which took place during the journey, ever threw the smallest gloom over my mind, till I laid Mr. Anderson in the grave. I then felt myself, as if left a second time lonely and friendless amidst the wilds of Africa."

VOL, VI. JULY, 1816,

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