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good preservation; but within, the ruins, rubbish, and herbage, have grown nearly to their level The chief of these ruins are those of a temple, which was once adorned with a portico and peristyle of grand Corinthian columns, all now prostrate; but their massive remains, immense capitals, and large pediments, attest their former magnificence. Of one of the most perfect of these, the shaft alone, without pediment or capital, is thirty-three feet in length, and four feet and a half in diameter." But the Acropolis, no less than the city, presents its illustrations of the word of the Lord. "There is a small stone building quite entire, now used as a shelter for flocks, of which there are many. And without the walls, as otherwise within them, nothing remains but scattered materials of former habitations, now partially concealed by the flowers and grass.

Leaving the Acropolis, we descended, and crossing the stream, on the northern bank of which, among other remains, are those of an Ionic colonnade, we proceeded to the farthest ruins. The most remote of these is a small theatre, evidently intended for scenic representations, as the space behind the proscenium was enclosed, and formed part of the building. Three passages remained as perfect as when they were formed, and they opened upon the stage by three arches. There were likewise side entrances, and communicating passages well adapted for theatrical pur

poses.

The proscenium was very handsomely ornamented; above the three arches ran a rich frieze of Corinthian decorations most beautifully carved, and perfectly uninjured; above were three niches for statues; the seats were on both sides perfect, but the centre forming the stage has been thrown down. There were three entrances by handsome arches, which brought the spectators to a broad landingplace, half-way up the rows of seats, and two smaller arches, which probably served for entrances to the seats of

honour, which here, as at Pompeii, were close to the stage. The theatre is remarkably well built, and is composed of very handsome stone; from without there are three entrances to the scenes, and four niches for statues, two between the doors, and two flanking them.

"The great theatre, near the other, is a grand edifice : it is scooped out of the side of the hill, being partly composed of the living rock, but chiefly of masonry. This theatre must have been intended for games and other exercises in the open air, as, instead of the enclosed passages and covered chambers behind the stage, there is only an open colonnade of handsome Corinthian columns, which extends from one extreme to the other of the rows of seats. Within the colonnade is an extensive arena of a horse-shoe form, 128 feet from seat to seat. Forty-three rows of seats extend to a great height, and are separated into three tiers by broad landing-places; seven radii of smaller steps admitted the spectators to their several seats, and each tier has several recesses. The second tier has doors communicating to a high arched passage, which runs round the theatre, and opens upon a side staircase, by which means the crowd could be divided; back staircases also mount from these passages to the upper tier, so as to enable the more humble spectators to gain and leave their seats without incommoding their richer neighbours below. In the centre of the uppermost bench is excavated a square chamber, with a beautifully carved cornice, having an elegant niche of the shell pattern on each side. There is, as usual in all ancient theatres, an arch entering upon the arena on each side where the seats terminate, reaching the proscenium.

"Of the other principal ruins a more slight notice may be given. A grand building, once apparently of an octagonal form, has still four of its sides perfect, which con

tain a grand alcove, and three lesser recesses. A colonnade of large Corinthian pillars was once ranged within it, but what purpose it served, there are no means of ascertaining. Heaps of ruins lie around it in bewildering confusion. Near to it are large houses, divided into many apartments, and a more modern church in good preservation; but all are alike deserted, though little labour would restore some of these buildings, not to their pristine glory, but to useful dwellings. And passing from these, other ruins are numerous but uninteresting. But the remains yet standing of one grand temple are sufficient to exhibit its former magnificence, surrounded as it was by lofty columns, some of which are still entire. A noble alcove, richly wrought, containing niches, and supported by pilasters, is yet perfect, a beautiful specimen of the riches of ornament, and fine finish of the corners. And near to the ruinous town is a little fane, square without but circular within, both sides being most richly decorated with frieze corners and pilasters of the Corinthian order. Four niches within are equally elaborately carved. It is divided into square apartments, each containing a variety of rich and elegant ornaments; and an open arch, which forms the entrance, has the most beautifully carved ceiling which I ever saw."1

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Such is now the once royal city of Ammon. Numerous ruins, and heaps in bewildering confusion, show how it has become a desolate heap. But this is not now its only feature. Some buildings in good preservation, and others still perfect, whatever purposes they may have been constructed to serve, fulfil now the purpose which, long before their erection, the prophet assigned them. Arches, of old trodden by the lovers of pleasure, of high or of low degree, unbroken by time which has laid the gay flutterers in the dust, are now promiscuously crowded by beasts; and where

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nobles were before kept from contact with their fellows, the pilgrim traveller in a desolate land now has cause to complain of the annoyance of flocks. It was not for them that arches, sculptured with exquisite art, and almost unrivalled beauty, were erected; nor to shelter them that walls, which, uninjured, have endured for ages, were built; nor did stables for camels, and couching-places for flocks, enter into the design of the architects of the palaces, theatres, or temples of Ammon, nor of the sculptors of their beautifully carved cornices and ceilings, and grand columns and alcoves. But He who saw the end from the beginning, declared it, ere ever one of these edifices of Grecian architecture was constructed, or the foundation of any of them was laid, or the plan of any of them was thought of, the appointed doom, and destiny, and use to which they have been brought, were delineated by the prophets; and as Ammon was taken by David, so also, in a higher sense, it is now held captive by the word of the Lord, and awaits the time when the children of Israel shall be restored, and the Lord, in the latter days, shall bring again the captivity of Ammon.

"East of Assalt," including Ammon, are thirty ruined or deserted places, of which the names are given in Dr Smith's Arabic Lists, only two being marked as having any inhabitants (in 1834); one of which, el-Fuhais, we were informed, was also since deserted.

CHAPTER VII.

MOAB.

THE prophecies concerning Moab are more numerous and not less remarkable than those concerning Ammon. Those of them which met their completion in ancient times, and which related to particular events in the history of the Moabites, and to the result of their conflict with the Jews, or with the neighbouring states, however necessary they may have been at the time for strengthening the faith or supporting the courage of the children of Israel, need not now be adduced in evidence of inspiration; for there are abundant predictions which refer so clearly to decisive and unquestionable facts, that there is scarcely a single feature peculiar to the land of Moab, as it now exists, which was not marked by the prophets in their delineation of the low estate to which, from the height of its wickedness and haughtiness, it was finally to be brought down.

That the prophecies concerning the land and the cities of Moab, as well as of Israel and Ammon, reach, ere their completion, to the latter days, is not merely implied but expressed in the sure word of prophecy itself. The long record of judgments against Moab (Jerem. xlviii. 1-47) thus concludes, "Yet will I bring again the captivity of Moab in the latter days, saith Jehovah," &c. When he, who is the root of David and the bright and morning star, shall set up an ensign for the nations, and shall assemble the outcasts of Israel, and gather together the dispersed of Judah from the four corners of the earth, as they have

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