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Adèle de Senange, Madame de la Rochefoucault, the Princesse de Vaudemont, M. de Souza the Portuguese envoy, and other diplomatic characters. To the company of elegant and sensible females, the writer had throughout the portion of his life, into which his correspondence gives us an insight, a very warm attachment: it was the object of constant research with him; and we need scarcely add that he was always acceptable, and soon became one of the most brilliant members of every society, male or female, to which he was introduced. At Hamburgh he apportioned his time with great regularity between the study of the French and that of the German language, (in the former of which he was previously a tolerable proficient,) drawing, exercise, and society; which the disturbed state of France at this period (1795), and a consequently remarkable influx of strangers into places situated like Hamburgh, contributed greatly to augment. The names of Klopstock and Madame de Genlis were shortly added to those of Mr. Tweddell's other acquaintance; Dumouriez was also in the neighbourhood; and, though not without some difficulty, Mr. T. procured access to him, circumstances at that time rendering it necessary for the General to live in a retirement approaching to concealment. Some anecdotes of other persons, whom political events had driven to Hamburgh for refuge, will be found in the annexed passage; which will also enable our readers to judge of the writer's mode of expressing himself in the French language, (certainly not very correct,) in which some few of his letters are written.-Speaking of Dumouriez, he adds:
Tout le monde le cherche, connoissant bien qu'il est dans le voisinage; mais personne, à ce que je sache, n'a encore decouvert le lieu de sa retraite, à ceux la près qui y ont été menés par un de ses amis. Il faut bien qu'il demeure caché, car ce gouvernement voudroit le chasser; les aristocrats voudroient le punir de ses victoires, les démocrats de sa desertion. Mais il est bien gai, et ne craint rien. Je viens de diner chez lui. Il m'a raconté de drôles d'aventures qui lui arrivèrent pendant ses différentes fuites. On dit que Barrere est à Hamburg. Si cela est vrai, assurément il se cache avec beaucoup de soin, car personne ne l'a encore vu. Pour moi, je n'en crois rien. On a ecrit d'Espagne à un de mes amis, qu'on l'attend dans ce pays là à tout moment. Il y arrivera sain & sauf malgrè les vents et les tempêtes. Il n'est pas né pour se noyer. Le Comte De Rivarol et l'Abbé De Montesquiou, deux des plus beaux esprits de Paris, sont ici. Le Duc D'Aiguillon l'est aussi, et beaucoup d'autres constitutionels. Avez vous lu encore le dernier roman de Mad. De Genlis? Il s'appelle Les Chevaliers du Cygne-En vérité je trouve que ses cygnes sont des oies. Elle demeure tout près de Hamburg. Depuis quelques jours j'ai fait connoissance avec
Klopstock. Il est un tres bon vieillard, mais un peu trop vieillard pour qu'on puisse deviner en lui l'auteur de La Messiade."
Berlin was the next station from which the correspondence was renewed; and at this place Mr. Tweddell commenced acquaintance with the Earl of Elgin, whom he had previously seen only in his passage through Hamburgh, but of whose attentions to him he now speaks in the very highest terms. It was the period of the carnival when he arrived at the Prussian capital, and all was bustle, noise, and court-galas. With the King, to whom Mr. T. was introduced by Lord E., the ambassador, he held a short conversation on the subject of travelling, and especially on the character of Abyssinian Bruce, whose work was much canvassed in all societies, for some time after its appearance. With the Princesses, Mr. T. was much delighted; the season of the year being fortunately that in which the court mixes much in society, which doubtless rendered the affability of the royal family to strangers more easy of remark. Of the Germans, Mr. T.. was not inclined to think favourably; the rude and uncouth manners of the men disgusted him; and, although he allowed that the women were not altogether without agrémens, he found but few who had any attraction. To his former occupations he now added those of fencing and riding in the military manège; a proof that he aimed at the acquisition of all that is elegant in the education of a gentleman, not confining himself to the attainments of literary excellence. A description of Berlin in times so fertile of tourists will add little to the information of our readers; and, as to its inhabitants, Mr. T. appears to have mixed more with French and English than native families. He particularly notices his reception by the (late) Duchess of Cumberland, Lord Elgin, and Dr. Browne, the King's physician †, whose family he characterizes as remarkably agreeable, containing three daughters, more highly accomplished and instructed than any other females whom he had seen at Berlin: - but the handsomest woman in Berlin, he says, was the Princess Royal, with whom he had the honour to dance.
At Dresden, Mr. Tweddell's stay was short; and much did he regret the society of Madame de Nadaillac, whom he left at Berlin: a woman whom he describes as full of esprit, and esprit of a much higher cast than what is usually called
*The late Frederick-William the Second.
This gentleman, who is an Englishman, retained the same situation under the present King of Prussia for many years.
by that name. Scandal, it appears, had been busy with his intimacy with this lady: but he here declares the total want of foundation for any such reports, and attributes their origin to the system of manners at Berlin, which did not allow the people to comprehend a bond of union between the sexes founded simply on friendship.
From Dresden, the traveller proceeded through Prague to Vienna. Of his occupations at this place, he has given but jejune accounts to his correspondents; which is the more remarkable, because this was a station from which he seems to have anticipated greater pleasure than from almost any other, as far at least as society was concerned. The family which principally contributed to his entertainment was that of the Duke de Polignac, and the Duchess de Guiche his daughter, to whom he had been recommended by the Marquise de Nadaillac; and he designates this family as literally the most pleasant that he had ever known. The Duchess of Polignac, whose influence with the unfortunate Marie Antoinette was an object of so much notoriety throughout Europe, did not long survive the tragical end of her royal patroness, but died at Vienna shortly after she had received the fatal
In attending Mr. T. into Swisserland, it is necessary to observe that he appears to have made a minute journal of every thing which occurred to him worthy of notice in that highly interesting part of Europe; and that he lost no opportunity of perfecting his knowlege of that country, whether by communications with the best informed inhabitants or by personal observation of all that was remarkable in nature.
The air of these high mountains has very bracing qualities, and after mounting almost perpendicularly for several hours, if for twenty minutes I rest myself upon the ground, I feel perfectly refreshed and as able to continue my route as when I first commenced. I am convinced that I have benefited materially by this excursion. But exclusively of an accession of health, I have by this means seen the country in a very superior manner. In each of the cantons through which I have passed, I left nothing unseen behind me. I have travelled where neither carriage nor horse could have followed my route- and General Pfyffer of Lucerne, who is better acquainted with his own country than any other man in it, told me that my course was one of the completest
* Since become Duchess of Grammont, wife of the nobleman whose defence of Versailles in October 1792 rendered him justly famous. She died in Scotland a few years since. Her son, who was a captain in the English army, has returned to France with the restored royal family.
that he had ever known to be pursued. My single journey will have embraced more than Mr. Coxe's tour. By the way, have you read Coxe's Travels? If not, buy the French translation by Ramond there are two translations--but Ramond has added many important observations to his, which are worth all the original together. You will be highly gratified with his observations upon the Glaciers, in Vol. ii. They are very finely written. Wherever I go, I always wait upon the men of information most celebrated in the place. I brought no letters with me (except for Lausanne), but the Swiss are so very obliging in communicating with strangers, and so pleased to find any stranger who interests himself about their country, that I never had the least difficulty in introducing myself wherever I wished. I always carry pens and paper in my pocket, write my observations on the spot, and transcribe them in a book before I go to bed. I have filled four small quarto books with such remarks, and one day or other I hope that you will have pleasure in travelling over again with me this country upon paper. Your affection will create the interest which exists but feebly in the remarks themselves. At present I am going to Basle, where I hope to find letters from Threepwood. You do not know what repast it is to hear from so great a distance especially while the posts are so uncertain, on account of the progress of the French. I have found here a letter from Lord Elgin, our envoy at Berlin, inclosing another from Mr. Wickham, our minister at Berne, with whom I dined yesterday.'
The books of remarks mentioned in this extract, and which the indefatigable exertions of the traveller and his powers of observing and digesting warrant us in presuming to have been of no ordinary value, form a portion of those relics, the loss of which, in common with others, we have so much to deplore. The most celebrated individuals, with whom Mr. Tweddell became acquainted while in Swisserland and the adjoining countries, were Necker, and his daughter, Madame de Staël, whom he considered as one of the most extraordinary women that he had ever met in society; Professor Wyttenbach, the well-known annotator on Plutarch; Lavater, with whom during his stay at Zurich he had much intercourse, and who is here depicted as 'a most interesting and amiable character;' and several other learned and remarkable persons: - independently of epistolary communications, through these and similar introductions, from many of the most eminent scholars of the Continent.
From Lausanne, the last place in Swisserland from which any of these letters are dated, the writer went back to Vienna; in his way visiting Munich, where he was received with much attention by the ingenious Count Rumford, and was highly delighted with the arrangement of the institutions for ame liorating the condition of the poorer orders. On his return to Vienna, he found that changes had taken place in the society 4+
in which he previously moved, that rendered a residence there far less eligible; and that the Polignac family had retired' to an estate in Lithuania, which Paul, newly installed in his imperial dignities, had conferred on them with much generosity. Warm in his attachment to this exiled family, Mr. T. determined to seek them out in the country of their adoption; and he arrived at the chateau of the Countess Potogka, of which Marshal Suvarrow was at this period an inmate, in time to witness the interesting scene of the final grant to the Duke de Polignac of his new estates. The letter announcing this grateful intelligence, and written by the Emperor Paul himself, was a good specimen of Spartan brevity:
"I have this day made a grant to the Duke de Polignac of an estate in Lithuania, containing a thousand peasants; and I have the pleasure of signifying it to him with my own hand. "PAUL."
The value of this estate is estimated at about 2000l. a-year, and in a country in which provisions, and numerous other accommodations, are furnished to the landlord by the peasants, exclusively of the rent. The Duke de Polignac lived at this time in the immediate neighbourhood of the Countess Potogka; and, while residing in their society, Mr. T. became acquainted with the Comte de Choiseul: to whom he pays as warm compliments as to his favourite Marquise de Nadaillac, by describing him as the man who, of all the beaux esprits of France, pleased him the most. His account of Suvarrow may not prove unentertaining to our readers:
• At present we are reduced to about 16 persons, and our society is somewhat select and pleasant. Among these is the Marshal Suvarrow, the hero of Ismaël. He is a most extraordinary character. He dines every morning about nine o'clock. He sleeps almost naked. He affects a perfect indifference to heat and cold— and quits his chamber, which approaches to suffocation, in order to review his troops, in a thin linen jacket, while the thermometer of Réaumur is at 10 degrees below freezing. His manners correspond with his humors. I dined with him this morning, or rather witnessed his dinner - he cried to me across the table," Tweddell! (he generally addressed by the surname, without addition) the French have taken Portsmouth. I have just received a courier from England. The King is in the Tower; and Sheridan Protector." A great deal of this whimsical manner is affected. He finds that it suits his troops and the people he has to deal with. I asked him, if after the massacre at Ismaël, he was perfectly satisfied with the conduct of the day? He said, he went home and wept in his tent. The Russian soldiers are inhuman beyond conception. The Marshal has given in his resignation, and has written a very imprudent letter to the Emperor.-The answer is arrived to-night-but the result is yet secret.'