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counterparts of one that stands in the hippodrome at Constantinople.

The last of our ride, leading us by the Greek convent, called us to drop a tear over the grave of Parsons. The convent is without the inner wall, and according to the information of the superior, who received us civilly, it contains four monks, besides a few novices. It is the only place for Greek worship now remaining in the city, once the capital of the four great patriarchates, into which the Christian world was divided, and the residence of prelates who successfully rivalled the incumbents of Constantinople itself. It is not even the residence of any ecclesiastical dignitary, the humble successor of the great Athanasius now occupying a moderate establishment in Cairo, a city of Moslem origin.

At my former visit to this convent seven years ago, I found in the pavement of the inner court, under the arcade, a slab of marble with an inscription pointing out the grave of Parsons. Now no trace of such a monument appeared. We were conducted into an open burying ground to search for it, but could find it no where. The superior said he had been here but four years, and knew nothing of it; nor could any of our inquiries lead us to the least information. The pavement had evidently been recently relaid, and as the convent received an income from the sale of burial places, the monument had doubtless been removed, that the place it occupied might be sold again. Such an iniquitous proceeding is nothing new. The tomb of a child, once buried here by Mr. Gliddon, who is now our consular agent, long since suffered the same fate. The result of our visit to-day was immediately reported to this gentleman. He was already aware of what had been done, and had his eye upon the unprincipled management of the monks; but was doubtful whether, instead of renewing the monument in its former place, it would not be better to erect one in the new English cemetery, where it would be under the protection of that power. We concluded on the whole, to claim the right of placing a small slab in the wall adjacent to the pavement in which was the former tomb-stone, where, by the side of the monument of Mr. Lee, the English consul, and others, it would probably be safe. In order to lay in this claim we visited the convent together on a subsequent occasion. The superior was sick and declined seeing us. But in reply to our roposition, he sent us word by the con

dragoman, that he dared not accede

to it upon his own responsibility, lest he should incur the displeasure of his superiors, and it must necessarily be referred to the patriarch. Mr. Gliddon therefore concluded to communicate with the Patriarch through his son and agent in Cairo, and report the result.

Native Education.

28. Wishing to look into the state of native education, I visited this morning the Greek Lancasterian school. It occupied two small rooms, for which, the teacher assured me, an annual rent of one thousand piastres is paid. On his list was the names of thirty-seven pupils, but not near half that number were present. Only two or three are admitted gratis; the rest pay from five to twenty piastres a month, according to their ability. The school is under the patronage of the Wesleyan missionary of this station, and perhaps would have been found in a more prosperous condition had he not been absent from the city. His Arab school will be noticed under another date. In the same Ochella which contained our lodgings was another school for native children, and the only one in the city for Christians of the Arabic language, except that just referred to. It contained perhaps forty scholars, and is wholly under papal influence, being taught by a papal Greek monk. How many scholars the Moslems may have I know not. They are probably numerous. It come to our knowledge, that there was just commencing the strange phenomenon of a school for Mohammedan girls entirely under native auspices. The sheikh or imam of the largest mosks had established a school for boys and another for girls.

Altogether too favorable statements have been made in England from high authority, respecting the part which the government of Egypt has taken in reference to education: and I have been sorry to see these statements copied into American magazines. Abroad it seems to be the order of the day to praise the present ruler of this land, in reference to the bearing of his measures upon the interests of his people. His schools, here and at Cairo, are for the education of persons whom he has taken under his patronage, intending them for the government service, in naval, military, or civil stations. He talks much of educating the people at large, and is probably favorably disposed toward it. But I am assured he has never established any schools for this purpose. He says, indeed, that if he

as could be given for to-day; and 1 preached, by invitation, in Mr. Gliddon's hall. Only his own family, our landlady, an American gentleman from Salem, and a gentleman from England were present. That so little regard should be paid to the ordinances of God's house affected our hearts. And yet, when we looked into the streets, and saw hundreds wearing our own dress, and calling themselves Christians, sauntering away the precious hours given them for their soul's benefit, in idleness, dissipation, and gambling; we thanked God that even two or three men were disposed to unite with us in erecting an altar to the living God.

were to establish them, and pay for attendants, none would come, for fear that they were traps designed to seize children for the public service, which is so much dreaded. Something like such a suspicion of sinister designs was not long ago manifested in reference to a missionary school. One was commenced for girls, which in a short time was attended by a considerable number. The teacher had occasion soon to take the names of the scholars, when to her surprise, all immediately ceased to come. The reason assigned, upon inquiry, was a fear that no good would result from the writing of their names. Perhaps the fear, however, had no particular connection with government. At Beyroot, 30. While in the United States I early in the history of the mission, our was exceedingly interested at learning school was seriously objected to as the that permanent sources of water had commencement of a plan for taking away || been found by boring in the desert bethe children to our own country. And tween Cairo and Suez. It promised to even to this day, especially where we be a discovery that would almost, not are strangers, strong suspicions are often only render deserts passable, but turn excited by our writing down the names them into fruitful fields. For nothing is of persons and places. Let him who wanted but water, and the sun of Egypt, would laugh at such childishness thank to give fertility to the most barren sands. God for giving him more knowledge and From the English consul we learned that a securer government. between Cairo and Suez water was found but in one place. That proves not to be a perennial spring. Between Kosseir and Kenneh they found some permanent sources, and opened former Arab wells. But these needing constant cleaning, which will never be done by the native authorities, no important permanent result is expected from their labors.

This favorable inclination of the ruler of Egypt to common education, is highly encouraging to missions, and is nearly or quite all a missionary would be disposed to ask of him. If he would insure to the attendants upon mission schools, an exemption from impressment into the public service, it would indeed be a great encouragement. Such an encouragement he has been asked to afford, but it was not granted, nor could it be expected. For it would be a sufficient inducement, not only for all the children, but for almost every man in the country, to rush into the schools. A more general countenance to missionary schools, he would probably give. The missionary at Alexandria recently took some steps to secure his approbation for a general system of Lancasterian schools. A book or two upon the English system was presented him; but being in English, he could not easily get their contents explained, and expressed a wish to see them in Italian. One or two plates, however, caught his eye, and gave him some insight into the plan, with which he was pleased. And if the project be followed up, it is not sure but it may lead to important results.

29. Sabbath. The English chapel having been closed for a number of weeks, in consequence of the absence of the missionary, it was deemed inexpedient to open it upon so short a notice

Introduction of Tracts on Temperance-
Egyptian Navy.

Jan. 2. Circumstances connected with my former visit, gave me a special desire, previous to my present return, to see the standard of temperance erected at Alexandria. Before leaving the United States, I had it on my mind, and procured a few temperance publications specially for this spot, if God should lead my steps hither. Without necessarily implying that this is worse than other cities of the Levant, I may say that drinking of wine and ardent spirits, carries off numbers of Franks here, and it is matter of wonder that more are not killed by it. The tendency of the climate is decidedly to promote affections of the liver, and this tendency cannot but be incurred by inebriating drinks, which many foolishly accustom themselves to take as a preventive of disease from the badness of the water and climate. Among the affecting cases which have come to my knowledge, is that of the

English captain with whom I first came to Egypt, then the master of a ship of four or five hundred tons. He at that time drank so freely that I feared for our safety; and also, besides treating all his officers, (among whom were three or four otherwise promising young men,) at the usual hours and at meals, he regularly called them to drink with him before retiring at night. He subsequently found, as might be expected, a drunkard's grave, and that in this city where so many others have found the same.

A few days ago I gave a copy of the reports of the American Temperance Society to our consul, and finding last night that they had interested him and his family, I furnished them this morning with another set and some tracts, for this city and for Cairo. His lady had long been an advocate for temperance, and was now inspirited with new zeal. She determined that all her countrymen, who|| would, should have an opportunity to read the reports at Alexandria, and not only so, but that in Cairo also they should be furnished with them. At the latter place a large number of English mechanics are employed in the pasha's manufactories, under a respectable director of their own nation. Many of them fall into lamentable habits of intemperance, and thus sacrifice their health and their life. She subsequently went to Cairo on a visit to her son, the American agent there, and procured the ready approbation of this director to the circulation of the temperance publications among his men. So deeply did the principles of temperance ultimately take root in her own family, that her husband at length poured out all his stores of ardent spirit, and thus cleared his house of the poison. It was not a little gratifying to us to see our worthy national agent enter so promptly into, I trust what may be called soon, if not now, our national spirit. And these, with one or two other similar facts that might be named, seemed to us like the first glimmering of early dawn upon the long spiritual night of Egypt.

The ships of the pasha are furnished with Moslem mollahs, or priests, as chaplains. But what duty is required of them regularly, I was unable to learn. In one ship, while at sea, I was informed, the men were assembled only at the sunrise and evening prayers, when the mollah led the worship. In port at Crete, the Izan was regularly cried for all the ships from the one which had the chief mollah on board. But does all this apparatus of false religion prevent the growth of sin? The pasha has added his authority to that of the Koran, and has forbidden intoxicating liquors and even smoking, to all on board, except Europeans. But intemperance is common from the admiral downwards, and a number of high officers were mentioned to me who indulged in it. And more than this, sodomy is the common sin of almost all on board, and much of their "filthy conversation" relates to it. It is forbidden by the pasha under a severe penalty, and therefore does not appear in public. Oh! the patience and forbearance of God, who by his power upholds such sinks of iniquity to swim the sea, and suffers them not to go down under the weight of their guilt. Surely a greater cry could never have gone up from Sodom and Gomorrah, nor could their sin have been more grievous.

Climate-Preaching to Franks-African Slaves.

4. This was considered a cold day for Alexandria, though not the coldest that is experienced here. The thermometer stood in our room, which was open and without fire, at 58 degrees, and a day or two after it sunk a degree lower, and in the open air stood at 51 degrees. But generally, during our stay, it varied not far from 60 degrees; and the atmosphere was clear and delightfully bland and serene. Rains, however, though rare in the interior of Egypt, are common here, in the winter. Last winter was uncommonly severe. Constant rains almost created a deluge, and ice, even, was

formed both here and at Cairo. From both these causes, but especially from the leaking of their houses, Europeans suffered much. The poor natives suffered more, especially those occupying the huts about the suburbs, many of whom perished from the washing in of their mud terraces. A few young men com

3. A part of this morning was spent in visiting two or three of the pasha's ships now lying in the harbor. The first was a frigate built at Leghorn. She was a pretty ship, her decks were well cleaned, and more neatness and order were observable than I had expected to find. The next was a line-of-menced a subscription for their relief. battle ship, under the command of an English captain. She was stripped for repairs.

To its execution the pasha was deemed essential, and the project was submitted to his prime minister. This officer re

plied that a proposition, which, like this, implied that his highness could not take care of his own subjects, could by no means be submitted to him! And thus the poor Arabs were left to suffer. In the summer Alexandria is not considered warmer than Beyroot, if it is so warm, and it appears not particularly unhealthy.

5. Sabbath. Information was given yesterday by a circular from our consul to the English residents, and by a card upon the chapel door, that services would be attended in the chapel to-day. We accordingly assembled this morning at 10 o'clock, and I preached to a congregation of fifteen, all but three or four of whom were females. The chapel is a room fitted up a few years ago by subscription among the English residents. It is a neat and comfortable place of worship, and I could not but be grieved that so few, after contributing their money, are willing to contribute their presence. The attendance to-day was rather better than usual. The English, even, are as sheep without a shepherd. And many a young man, finding practices countenanced by public opinion, which would thrust him out of all good society in his native land, is carried away by the stream of pollution and lost for time and for eternity. I was about to mention particulars but I forbear.

We met in the evening, by invitation, at our consul's for prayer. One only, besides his family, joined us. Yet it was refreshing to find two or three take delight in prayer, where all seem to have gone out of the way.

I have already informed you that the Franks here amount to several thousand, and that nearly all are papists. The only place of worship for the latter is in a convent of some size just without the inner wall, and monks are the officiators. They have two schools, with twenty or thirty boys in each, both under papal influence, and taught by Italians. For Frank females, there is now no school, and we were assured that those who were born in the country, though many learn enough to say they can read and write, generally know hardly enough of these elementary branches to be of any use to them. A missionary to Alexandria ought, of course, to direct much of his attention to the Franks. Were he to do this, the opposition of their priests would probably effect but little. For the majority of the Franks here, we were assured, care little about their priests, and neglect and often ridicule their religious rites. Were the missionary to

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7. In a walk at noon into the suburbs, we happened upon a new sight. Among the miserable hovels, already referred to, was a cluster inhabited by black female slaves from Darfoor. For the first time I could conceive of the rudeness and barbarity of the heart of Africa, for we seemed to be transported thither; the beings before us having undergone no change in their removal from their native land. A coarse blanket, half covering them, was their only dress, and some were almost entirely unclothed. Also their features were those of the negro and their skin was of the darkest hue. Their woolly locks hung in short braids from the tops of their heads, smeared with grease, and looking like a dirty mop. They are said to be wives of the black soldiers, who are numerous in the Egyptian troops, and procured for them by the pasha, a strong antipathy preventing the Egyptians and them marrying. Most of the hovels constituting the suburbs of the city seem to be occupied by soldiers' women, and the wretched condition of the wives is not a bad picture of the condition of the husbands. I have already intimated that the Egyptian soldiers and sailors are raised by forcible impressment, which is submitted to with great reluctance. Indeed mothers are known to maim their little ones by digging out one eye, cutting off a finger or a hand, to secure them from it! The same cruelties are inflicted by grown persons, also, upon themselves for the same reason. Surgeons in the navy have assured me that the case is not unfrequent of persons in the service blinding themselves by sprinkling some powder in their eyes, or by other means, in order to be released from it. Indeed the pasha has been obliged to take cognisance of these practices, and many are now in chains here for maiming themselves, a number of whom we saw.

LETTER FROM MR. SMITH, DATED
MOUNT LEBANON, SEPT. 27, 1834.

was deeply solemn. Mr. Jones, the chaplain, assured us, that he believed, as they went to Calvary, Gethsemane, the

Visit of Public Ships of the United Mount of Olives, and Bethlehem, the could easily have wept.

States to Beyroot.

THE salutary influence which may be exerted by visits of the public vessels of our nation to those benighted lands where our missionaries are laboring to introduce Christianity and those other means of intellectual and social improvement which are enjoyed here; together with the pleasure which such visits may confer on mission families which have voluntarily exiled themselves from their country and home, to engage in this humane and benevolent work, is well exhibited in the following letter.

A recent journey with Mrs. Smith and Mr. and Mrs. Whiting, to the Bukaa and Baalbek, has prevented my reporting at an earlier date a recent visit to Beyroot of two of our national ships. Such a visit had long been desired by us. Besides the pleasure anticipated from the sight of our flag, and the presence of so many of our countrymen, we had wished such a visit, that it might give the people an idea of our distinct national existence: and also, from the impression it might make, we had expected to derive important protection in times of danger. In the actual result, I am happy to say, not only have our anticipations been realized, but we have received decided countenance in our missionary labors.

whole

company At the time of their arrival at Beyroot, we had all removed for a season to the mountain for the recovery of our health, except Dr. Dodge and Mr. Thomson, who were at Jerusalem. Mrs. Smith and myself, however, having had business at Beyroot the day before, happened to be at hand to make an early call upon the commodore and his family. The next day Mr. Bird and Mr. Whiting came down; and on the Sabbath the former, at the request of Mr. Jones, preached on board. The commodore wishing to visit Damascus, the residence of the governor general of Syria, set out on Monday for that place with two of his daughters and a party of ten or twelve officers. Mrs. Smith and myself accompanied them as far as Bhamdoon, dining with Mr. Whiting at Aaleih on our way. With us they spent the night, in such rude accommodations as we could offer them in our mountain village. To welcome to our homely fare on Lebanon, so many of our countrymen, and they friends whom our short acquaintance taught us to esteem so highly, was a pleasure as great as it was unexpected. Leaving the next morning, they reached Damascus in forty-eight hours from Beyroot, half the time usually consumed in the journey. After spending two days there, and visiting the ruins of Baalbek on their return, they reached us again to breakfast-on the next Tuesday; and then hastening down to Beyroot, prepared for their departure.

The Delaware line-of-battle ship and the schooner Shark, the former bearing the flag of commodore Patterson, arrived at Beyroot on the 29th of August. The commodore's lady and three daughters In the mean time, on the Sabbath, at were with him. The ships had previous- the request of Mr. Jones, who had acly anchored at Joppa, while all the offi- companied the commodore, and with the cers but one, and the commodore's fam- approbation of captain Nicholson, it had ily, in two successive companies, went devolved upon me to preach on board. up to Jerusalem. A number of the No American vessel having been seen sailors, also, took that opportunity to at Beyroot before, and the Delaware visit the Holy City, the zeal of some being the first line-of-battle ship, of any leading them to travel the whole distance nation, that had entered the harbor withon foot. Such a number of Franks had in the recollection of most, great curiosrarely arrived there in company since ity was excited by her appearance; and the time of the crusades. In the com- free admittance being allowed, the namodore's party, seventy-three Americans tives flocked to see her in crowds. On entered the gates of Jerusalem together. the Sabbath when I preached, the numUpon the city such a company, coming ber of visitors was unusually large; and from the ends of the earth, from a coun- being permitted to remain during wortry, the name of which most of the peo- ship, they stood around as spectators, and ple probably had never heard, made a numbered almost as many as the sailors deep impression; and it was a favorable themselves. Such a rare opportunity of one to our nation. Upon the visitors exhibiting to them our simple and solemn themselves the impression left by wit- form of worship, I considered of inestinessing those once consecrated scenes,mable value. It was a most affecting

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