Ride to Oormiah-Interview with the
Patriarch.

for himself.-The church is a large edifice, built of stone and brick, situated on an elevated spot, but all, save the roof, sunk in the ground. The building is divided into several small apartments, all of which are entered by very small doors. The church itself is a room of considerable size. We found in it no images or pictures; but its entire walls are most untastefully, not to say ridiculously, hung with old shawls, pieces of calico, etc., of every conceivable color and description, for the purpose of ornament. The church is surrounded by a very ancient graveyard, some of whose stones are very large, and all are inscribed with Syriac

characters. In the centre is a beautiful fountain, surrounded by wide-spreading shade trees.

The city of Oormiah is the ancient Thebarma, and is said to be the birthplace of Zoroaster. It is situated on an October 20, 1834. We started about elevation of ground, about ten miles eight in the morning, the bishop propos- southwest of the lake, and within about ing to find a servant in a village near the ten miles of the mountain. On every city. He must be an ecclesiastic and side are gardens of vast extent, surroundable to read, because two at least are ed and interspersed with shade trees of required in saying their prayers, there such size and in such numbers as to give being frequent responses; besides, he the whole vicinity much the appearance would like to perform mass at Tabreez of a great American forest. It is enoccasionally. We rode about twelve compassed by a high wall and a broad miles across soil but little cultivated, the deep ditch. The number of its inhabimountain closing down near the lake. tants is about twenty thousand. Vast There the plain of Oormiah begins to ex-multitudes, some say one half of the pand towards the southwest to a vast ex-population, were carried off by the plague tent. It is almost perfectly level, extremely fertile, highly cultivated, irrigated by several streams, and covered with gardens, orchards, and villages. The city is quite to the southwest extremity of the plain. It was nearly dark when we reached it. The bishop conducted us directly to the Nestorian corner of the city, and gave us rooms for lodging in the church, and took an adjoining one

VOL. XXXI.

that raged here four years ago. Of the inhabitants about fifty are Jews,* two hundred are Nestorians, (the Nestorians reside mostly in villages near,) and the

*The language of the Jews, in Oormiah, so much resembles that of the Nestorians, that the two people can very well understand each other. This Jewish dialect is said to differ considerably from the one spoken in Turkey. The language common to all classes in this province is a Tartar dialect of the Turkish.

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rest are Mohammedans. There were a few Armenians formerly in the city and in the provinces, but they followed away the Russians.

The city, within, has a very venerable and rather inviting appearance. It has much broader streets, more shade trees and gardens, and a greater air of general comfort, than any city I have seen in Asia. In the extensive bazars, we noticed some of the best fruit I ever beheld. European cloths and other goods have also found their way there to a considerable extent.

On our arrival at the city we were informed that the patriarch, Elias, was in a village four miles distant, but was expected to depart the next day. I therefore despatched our Armenian attendant immediately to apprize him of my being in the city, and of my wish to visit him.

could not while she remained a Christian. Thus torn from home and friends, she was frightened into a profession of the faith of the prophet, and compelled to become the wife of a Mohammedan. The bishops of the province were endeavoring to rescue the girl, but had little expectation of success. Here, you know, "Judgment is turned away backward, and justice stands afar off." In the other instance, a boy of sixteen was seized and compelled to profess himself a Mohammedan. As soon as an opportunity occurred, he absconded, fled into Russia, and renounced his Mohammedan profession. On the road to Oormiah we overtook this boy, slyly making his way home. Under our protection, he reached his native village, but was in constant apprehension of losing his life. Mr. Haas, being pleased with his appear21. The Armenian returned, saying ance and compassionating his condition, that the patriarch would defer his depar- brought him to Tabreez with him. In ture one day for the sake of seeing me. addition to these seizures, Persian law About the same time Mar Gabriel, the holds out a very strong though diabolical bishop resident in the village of Ardishai,|| inducement to nominal Christians here called to visit me. He is a young man, to become Mohammedans. The act of about twenty-five years of age, of a care- professing the Mohammedan religion, less air, yet of a pleasant, intelligent, entitles a Christian to the immediate energetic countenance. I stated to him possession of all the property belonging the object of my coming here, and he re- to his family relatives. Notwithstanding sponded a most hearty welcome and the force of this motive, however, to the pledged his own utmost co-operation, in unsanctified heart, the horror* of abanthe accomplishment of that object. "The doning the Christian faith is so great, priests of the city, in whose church we that instances of voluntary conversion to then were, do not receive me,” he said, || Mohammedanism are rare. The Nes"with much cordiality, as you probably torians informed me, that they had pronoticed. Being metropolitan of this pro- cured a repeal, so far as they were convince, I recently excommunicated them cerned, of the statute above referred to for marrying men to two wives; which respecting the tenure of property from you know," he added, appealing to me, Abbas Meerza sometime before his "is forbidden in the gospel." Sanctioned death; but that the governor of Oormiah, polygamy is not prevalent among the or his secretaries, had always so manNestorians. aged as to prevent their deriving any benefit from the repeal. I found it ex

I gave Mar Gabriel some of my New Testaments and spelling-books, with which he seemed exceedingly delighted, * An old widowed Armenian woman, in Tabreez, who has been for some time a nurse in my family, and he departed, uttering some comhad carefully accumulated $400, by washing for plaints against the Mohammedans. The European gentlemen. Her son, a prodigal fellow, Nestorians are all very ready to ascribe importuned her for the money; but she refused to let their present degradation to Mohamme-him have it, until, to secure it at any rate, and retaldan oppression; and, to a great extent, it is unquestionably true that they are sorely oppressed. Besides being wantonly stripped of their honest earnings, seizure of their children and coercive conversion of them to the Mussulman faith, are not unfrequent. Two instances of this kind had just occurred in neigh-ment. boring villages. In one, a young girl of noted attractions was seized by twenty armed men, carried to the city, and delivered to a Mussulman, who, hearing of her beauty, had wished to marry her, but

iate on his mother, he professed himself a Mohammedan. He was immediately hailed as a monster, at every turn, by his own people; besides, the act itself, on more consideration, so frightened him that he recanted, gave up his pursuit of the money, and came back to the Christian faith. Being liable to lose his head for the recantation, and unable to conceal himself longer, he fled a few weeks ago into Russia. Persian policy may be well illustrated by perusing the history of this old woman's money.

She committed it to a female relative for concealA son of this relative learning where the money was deposited, stole the whole sum. The who recovered the money and punished the thief; owner arraigned him before the governor of the city,

but said that an old wash-woman had no right to he

the possessor of so much money; he therefore took happened last week.

one half to himself and restored her the other. This

tremely difficult to pacify them, and resist their importunities that I should go and remonstrate in person with the gov-|| ernor on their numberless grievances.

About noon we set off for Geog Tapa (white hill) to see the patriarch Elias. Mar Yohanna accompanied us, as guide and friend. It was interesting to observe the Nestorians, as we passed them on the road, approach their bishop affectionately and kiss his hand.

Forgetting the bishop's request, that I should call him and his people Chaldeans, I often in conversation repeated Nestorians. He at length laughed, and humorously remarked, "We shall soon be at war if you do not cease calling us Nestorians."

When we reached the house of the ketkhodeh of the village, where the patriarch was staying, we were detained sometime, until a room might be put in order to receive us. We were at length conducted into a large room, at the end of which the patriarch was seated on cushions. Mar Yohanna approached him and kissed his hand, and then introduced us. He welcomed us cordially with a smile. I was obliged to communicate with him through three interpreters. He not being able to speak Turkish, (Arabic and Syriac are the languages spoken in the region of El Koosh,) the bishop addressed him in Syriac. Our Armenian attendant communicated with the bishop in Turkish, Mr. Haas with the latter in Armenian, and I with him in English. Yet notwithstanding the many links in our chain of communication we conversed fluently for three hours, and it was decidedly the most interesting interview I ever enjoyed with any personage whatever. I had felt great solicitude respecting the impression I might leave on the mind of the ecclesiastical head of the people for whose benefit I came to Persia; and was very happy, as we proceeded, to find him heartily seconding all I said. Soon after our introduction, the patriarch remarked that his people were exceedingly oppressed and degraded. I seized upon this remark as an opportunity of making known to him my object in coming here. I replied that it was a source of grief to Christians in America, that his people were in the condition he had stated. He expressed gratitude for our sympathy. I continued, that hearing such to be the state of the Nestorians, and that they still made the Bible their rule of faith, exalting it above all human traditions, Christians in America sent two messengers a few years ago to ascertain whether these things were really

||

so; that these messengers in their report confirmed what had previously been heard in America respecting the condition of the Nestorians; that American Christians then more than ever felt interested for his people; that it was their prayer that the Nestorians might continue to reverence the Bible, and never yield to any solicitations to abandon the christian religion, etc.; moreover, that Christians in America had not felt satisfied with merely praying for the Nestorians; that they remembered the words of the apostle, "If a brother or sister be naked and destitute of daily food and one of you say unto them, Depart in peace; be ye warmed and filled, etc., what doth it profit?"-and that they had accordingly sent me to try to aid his people, if he and they wished it, by assisting them to circulate the Bible, establish schools, prepare school books,

etc.

As the successive items of this explanation were communicated to the patriarch, I noticed the kindling emotion gleaming from his countenance; and I had scarcely quoted the passage of scripture mentioned above, and fully announced my object, when he raised his eyes toward heaven and exclaimed, "Thanks be unto God, this is just what I have been praying for, and what we need." He desired me to present his most heartfelt gratitude to Christians in America for sending me here with such an object; and he expressed the same to me for coming, promising at the same time to help me in every way in his power. I told the patriarch, I had brought with me two Syriac books, which I should like to submit to his inspection. They were the gospels above mentioned, and the Nestorian spelling-book. He already had two copies of the gospels from the British and Foreign Bible Society lying by him, and he seemed exceedingly rejoiced to find mine to be of the same kind. The spelling-book, too, he said, was admirably prepared; that nothing was faulty in it, save the location of some of the points; and that, he said, was a trifle. He expressed a strong desire, that American Christians would send me a Syriac press. He would appoint one of his most learned men, he said, to devote his time to aid me in the preparation of books: not that he would find any fault with the books that had been already prepared for his people; but that there were many books in their language which it was desirable to have printed.

During our conversation, the great room was nearly filled with listening

Interview with the Governor of Oormiah.

Nestorians, who seemed enraptured with ||ished at such marvellous displays of the idea of having books printed in their learning. language. The chief man of the village took up the spelling-book I had brought to show as a specimen to the patriarch and began to teach his little boy (about This morning I sent the letters I had four years old) the alphabet; and schools with me, from Sir John Campbell, the and Bibles became at once the engross-prince, and the vizier, to the governor. ing theme.

His excellency returned an invitation, that I should visit him, and we immediately called. We found him occupying a splendid mansion, and surrounded by numerous attendants. He is an intelligent man and received us very kindly. Being told that I was from the new world, he replied, "Every thing is superlative that comes from the new world.” He dealt out many other Persian compliments, of a like description. He remarked, that Mr. Fraser, the English novelist on Persia, had been his guest, on his way to Bagdad, three days before, and had mentioned that I was soon coming there and should bring books with me. I told him I had brought some Syriac books for the Nestorians; and inquired whether he thought it would be well to distribute books among them. Two moollahs sat near, and he was ob

A dinner was spread on the floor, consisting of yogoon, bread, cheese, butter, walnuts, and raisins. We all ate in Asiatic style, with our fingers. During dinner the patriarch remarked, that within the last three years (i. e. since he himself revolted from Rome,) about six hundred families, in the vicinity of El Koosh, who were formerly Catholics, have become Nestorians. I was careful not to reproach the adherents of Rome. Still I was happy to let him know that neither I nor my patrons were numbered among her sons. Soon after dinner, I took my leave of the patriarch, being permitted to believe that he heartily welcomed me to my missionary labor. My heart melted in gratitude to God, that he had brought me to Oormiah, just in time to meet this man, and that I had been permitted to enjoy so encouraging an in-viously embarrassed. With a smile,

terview.

Mar Yohanna remained to spend the night with the patriarch. Our ride back to the city, just before sunset, was delightful.

I

however, he replied, that the learned clergy of the Nestorians could best decide that point. I told him I had the day before seen their patriarch, showed him specimens of my books, and that he 22. We were early awaked by the pronounced them good and suitable to priests and some of the people coming be distributed among his people. The to prayers. Their services consisted of governor said, "It is then very well." chanting, bowing, kneeling, and crossing He himself, I am confident, would never themselves, and continued about half an discourage the establishment of schools, hour. When I went out of my room, or the circulation of books, among the found Mar Elias (the bishop, not the pa- Nestorians. Like other Persian govertriarch) from Geog Tapa, with the priests. nors, however, he is a creature of the He was absent when we visited his vil-moollahs. While the latter are quiet, lage yesterday. He is a captious old man, about sixty years of age, and prides himself exceedingly on his repeated learning. He gave me a formal welcome to his people; but I was much less pleas- || ed with him, to the last, than with the other bishops.

A copy of my spelling-book was brought, and turning to the alphabet, after entertaining his own people present for some time, he addressed himself to us. "It would be extremely instructive and entertaining for us," he said, "if he only had time to sit down with him and be instructed into the profound meaning of each letter of the Syriac alphabet-alif (a) for instance," he said, "for Allaha, (God,) and for Adam (man,) and so on." His own people present seemed aston

the missionary can have protection and pursue his course; but he must always expect to depart from the field at their bidding. They watch with eager eyes, and sound the alarm at the least indication of danger. A German missionary, who was understood to be preparing a book against the Mohammedan religion, came near losing his life, in Tabreez, two years ago. In an indirect manner much may be done.

When the governor found that I had brought no Persian books for distribution, he seemed to labor to conceal his previous apprehension. He inquired how I was pleased with Oormiah. I replied that I was highly pleased with it, so much so, that I might at some day like to come there and reside. "Most wel

come will you be," he replied, "the whole city shall be yours." He directed a house to be immediately prepared, for our reception, and appointed a young nobleman to accompany us over the city to visit its antiquities. We returned to the church, and had our effects removed thence to the house provided for us by the governor.

Mar Elias (the bishop) soon called to visit us; and several applications for books came from distant villages; among the rest came four little boys from Geog Tapa, on foot, a distance of four miles. They belonged to Mar Elias' school. They had heard of my being in their village the day before and having books with me, and they all started forthwith to procure for themselves books. They set down around me, and I gave them each a copy of the gospels and a spelling-book, which they folded to their bosoms and kissed, and then read them admirably.

In the course of the afternoon the governor sent us presents of tea, sugar, fresh fish, and bushels of grapes and melons. Such presents we are always sorry to receive, in Persia, as an extravagant return is universally expected; and in value corresponding to the rank of the Persian donor.

he to us. He replied that we had already seen how the Nestorians pray, and now he should be most happy to see how we pray. I read a chapter in the Bible and we kneeled down and prayed. As soon as we closed, the bishop broke out, "That is very well." Observing us kneel in different directions, however, he asked, "Which way do you turn your faces when you pray?" We told him we were not particular on that point, as God is in every place. He seemed satisfied with our answer, and merely replied, that the Nestorians always turned their faces towards the east when they pray, because they are looking for Christ to come from that direction.

23. In the afternoon we visited the gardens back of the city. They are about two miles in extent, and very tastefully laid out. Two rows of thickly studded poplars surround each, with a stream of water running between them. The gardens are also covered with fruit trees, arranged in squares, and ornamented with flower bushes. Artificial fountains were here and there flowing. Our walk through these gardens brought us to the foot of the Kurdish mountains. We ascended two or three heights, from which we enjoyed a fine view of the most enchanting scenery I ever beheld. We had a perfect view, first, of the gardens at the foot of the mountains-next the city-then the gardens east of the city-afterwards the vast plain, gleam

with its numberless orchards and vineyards-and, finally, of the pure lake, rising in the distance and apparently meeting the skies. Forgetting for a moment the moral night that is brooding over this beautiful scene, I could hardly resist the feeling, as I surveyed it from the mountain top, that my eyes were resting upon the paradise of Eden.

At evening, Mar Yohanna returned from Geog Tapa. I inquired what the patriarch said, respecting his going to Tabreez. "He told me," said Mar Yohanna, "to go home with you, and learning with a golden harvest and decked English, and do just as you say." He, at the same time, took from his pocket two of the patriarchate seals, which the patriarch had given to the bishop, directing him, (inasmuch as I am to be located at a great distance from El Koosh, often rendered impassable by Kurdish hostility,) to aid me, in his name, by the use of those seals, in any undertaking in which I might need his influence, as in the establishment of schools, the printing of books, etc.-Such a mark of confidence in me, and of approbation of my object, was most gratifying and altogether unexpected.

Mar Yohanna took lodgings in the same room with us. In the evening we told him that it was our practice to have worship morning and evening, and that we would submit the point to his pleasure, whether we should listen to him, or

* Mar Elias' school, to which these boys belong, is the only regular school in the province. It consists of twelve or fifteen scholars. Several of the priests have two or three boys each around them. In all cases, the boys who learn to read are but very imperfectly taught, both for the want of books and competent instructors.

VOL. XXXI.

On our return, Mar Yohanna informed us that he had engaged as his servant, to accompany him to Tabreez, the most learned priest in the province-one belonging in Geog Tapa, who had all his life sat at the feet of bishop Elias. I inquired why he selected a man of so much prominence as his servant. He replied. "In the first place, I wish to take with me a Nestorian who may prove an agreeable and worthy companion, as well as servant for myself; and in the second place, I wish to take one who shall himself be worthy of your attention and instruction."

I could not object to either of these reasons, especially when the bishop, at the same time, stated that no additional

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