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much, that they raised it immediately. Sheeraz is full of such kind of stories of the Vakeel, who is the only prince I never heard abused.* His cruelties are lost in the remembrance of the obligations he conferred upon the people of Sheeraz, and by a contrast with the enormities of his successors. The Mudrusus (colleges) are decaying fast; and the revenues, which are allotted for their support, are generally appropriated to other purposes. The squares before the governor's and prince's palaces are large; and the houses near it appear to be the best in the city.

At least a fourth part of Sheeraz is entirely in ruins; the quarter where the Laks resided, to the number of ten thousand, was destroyed by A Moohummud. They have a very popular, but I believe a most unfoundey story, concerning these people, who are said to meet once a year, with their families, to celebrate an abominable feast. It resembles the account given by Dr. Fryer of the feast of the Gubrs. I know not where he could have received his account, but all my enquiries (and the Mahomedans are as bigotted as the doctor) persuaded me of the falsehood of his relation.

He is said to have ornamented the city with so many buildings merely for the purpose of employing the poor.

+ Travels into Persia, p. 266. Suspicion appears to be natural to man: privacy implies guilt, and opens a wide field for conjectures, which are soon advanced as positive truths. I greatly suspect that in the accounts we have received of the mysteries of former times, this has often been the case.

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CHAPTER VII.

Reception of the Prince-Queen--Visit paid to the Governor-Respect shewn to him—Presents-Avarice of the Governor.

A FEW days after the prince's and queen's arrival at Sheeraz, the astrologers pronounced, that it would be at such a period a lucky hour for their making a public entrance into the city. They had hitherto resided at one of the gardens near Sheeraz: great preparation was made for the occasion; all the principal people had to go out of the town, as a mark of respect to the young prince; and their wives had to shew the same attention to the queen his mother.* The cavalcade was conducted as before; the women were mounted on horses, which they rode like men, the most natural and safest seat for a lady.

Shortly after my arrival, I was introduced by the Sheikh of Bushire to the governor, Chiragh Ulee Khan. He was very polite and civil; and, during the time I was there, threw off a great deal of that supercilious and insulting condescension which the Persians of rank in general affect. The governors of the different subordinate districts stood before him, at a considerable distance, exposed to the sun, and appeared to be in continual alarm of giving offence. The room in which he sat was neither magnificent nor large; indeed the only circumstance which declared his rank, was the

This ceremony in Persia is called Peeshwaz, in India Istuqbal. Before any person of rank enters a city, it is usual for him to be received by a deputation: if his rank is very considerable, the Peeshwaz is sent to a great distance. A thousand men were sent to meet the prince half way between Isphahan and Sheeraz, one hundred miles.

trembling looks of his visitors. It will strike persons, who live under a free government, that the custom of enforcing respect, and commanding reverence must invariably create dislike and aversion; and that the only method of ensuring respect, is to deserve it. In despotic governments, however, it may be perhaps necessary to command attention. If, according to Montesquieu, the principle. of despotic monarchies is fear, the Persian government is right in inspiring its subjects with a dread of power. They have succeeded in this to the very summit of their hopes; the miseries which the inhabitants of Sheeraz have individually suffered, render them callous to the afflictions of their neighbours. The only principle of their life is to avoid giving offence, or to afford even a handle for persecution.

It is the custom in Persia to make a Pesh Kush (present) to any superior who may have assisted you either by his countenance or authority. And their rapacity and avarice are generally in proportion to the value of the favour they have conferred, or to the dignity of their situations. It was with difficulty I could satisfy the governor of Sheeraz; who, through the medium of the Sheikh of Bushire (as I afterwards discovered), informed me whether my presents were commensurate to his expectations. Unfortunately for me, he had at this time to make presents to the prince, the queen, and several of their principal attendants, which possibly might make him more rapacious than at any other period. I was obliged to part with many things I intended for myself; but multa gemens. It is surprising to what a degree of meanness the Persian noblemen will descend to upon these occasions. They generally. contrive you shall know their wants, the presents they require, and the value of your gifts. Among themselves it is common to return a present because it is not sufficiently valuable; and the donor is then obliged to add a more sumptuous offering to excuse this heinous offence.

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CHAPTER VIII.

Persian Gardens-Description of a Sohbut-Hafizeeu-taking out a Fal-perversion of the Verses of Hafiz-Huftun-Portraits of Hafiz and Sadee-Tomb of Sadee-Dil Gosha-Juhan NoomaKolahi Ferungee-Tukhti Qujureeu.

THE

HE gardens about Sheeraz are much celebrated; but the striking uniformity of long walks and narrow alleys is sure to displease European taste. You may, perhaps, walk a quarter of a mile, and on either side not have a view of a few yards. Yet the Persians delight in visiting these gardens: any thing delights them; and a running stream almost makes them frantic. Nor is this to be wondered at; it is here that they relieve themselves, from the anxieties and drudgery of business, and enjoy their Sohbuts. The day is passed in smoking, in the amusement of fishing, or in listening to the odes of various poets: night frees them from restraint; if they drink, the glass circulates without apprehension; nor do the ruby lips of the accomplished yielding beauty hesitate to sip the sparkling liquor of Sheeraz. I believe this to be the utmost extent of a Persian's desire of happiness, the sublimest notion he can form of human enjoyment.*

During my residence at Sheeraz, I saw little worthy of entitling it to the lavish praises of its inhabitants, who, like sa

I speak generally; of course there will be found some who have a more elevated notion of the nature of man.

vagse in possession of a rarity, can conceive none other in the world.*

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Joy be to Sheeraz and its unrivalled borders;

“O heaven preserve it from decay!"

Is the pious prayer of Hafiz, but it is likewise the prayer of an enthusiast. The tomb of this celebrated poet is of white marble, built by the munificence of the Vakeel, and is situated in a small garden called the Hafizeeu. On the tablet are two of his odes, very beautifully cut; a number of tombs and graves are adjacent, but none of them deserving notice, either for the beauty of the building, or the celebrity of the deceased. A few Durweeshes have taken up their abode at this place, where they chaunt the odes of Hafiz, and daily visit his tomb. I was surprised that they did not beg of me, and attributed it to their aversion to hold any kind of intercourse with an infidel. I think they misinterpret Hafiz; it is to be hoped so for the sake of the poet. His Deewan, or Collection of Odes, is supposed to contain inimitable passages of mystic adoration; and it is the custom, on any urgent occasion, to take a Fal (omen) out of his works, to ascertain the probability of success or disappointment. They propitiate Hafiz with such verses as

these:

اي حافظ شيرازي کاشف هررازي

"O Hafiz of Sheeraz, the divulger of all secrets," &c.

Isfuhan nisfi Juhoon, "Isphahan equal to half the world," is a title which the Persians have given to that city; and Hafiz says, Sheerazi ma uz Isfuhoon bih, "Our Sheeraz is superior to Isphahan."

The same custom was formerly observed in England in respect to the Virgilian lots. See the two curious passages chosen by Charles I. and Lord Falkland. Johnson's Poets, vol. i. p. 10. The passage which procured the poet's interment was singular; the one chosen for Nadir Shah not less so: both of them probably selected for the occasion.

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