KINDNESS OF FRIENDS. -CARNIVAL.

223

their careless keepers, revenged themselves on the wheat patches. True, this was a very unexpected and unpilgrim-like introduction into Jerusalem; yet we made up our minds to be as contented as possible, and found much relief in the kind messages of Mrs. Whiting, inquiring how we fared, and whether she could serve us, in the absence of Mr. W. at Beyrout; and in the early and very friendly calls of Mr. Nicolayson, the estimable Church Missionary from England, and of W. R. Young, Esq., the English consul. We were much indebted to the kindness of these gentlemen, who treated us as if we had been their own countrymen and friends. They sent our letters to Beyrout by their special messengers, and inquired what they could do to serve us. Mr. Young kindly offered to see the Pacha himself to secure our release, or an abatement of the time of quarantine, and sent us London papers, which we ran over with great eagerness, at first perusing those passages only in which the words America, United States, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, Pittsburgh occurred. How dear is our country when we are far away from it!

Although we were in quarantine, yet we were not forbidden to ascend the western wall of the city, and traverse the ramparts from the northwest angle to the Jaffa Gate. It was near the close of the Carnival, and Lent was about to commence. Every afternoon the whole Christian population, in their merriest mood and gayest attire, poured out of the city and spread themselves amid the olive groves in the valley of the Gihon, and on the declivities of Mount Zion, dispersed in groups under the trees, the men and women apart. On the surrounding heights to the west and south of the Gihon, the boys were playing with great glee, and the youth

Each

group

was sup

were even noisy in their sports. plied with refreshments of fruits and sweetmeats. The dress of the women was peculiar: each one was wholly enveloped in what seemed to be a large white sheet, falling in folds to the ground, as if thrown over a statue to conceal it or defend it from the dust. No part of the person was visible except the face, occasionally, when the small white or coloured veil was removed. As the sun went down, the various groups of women broke up, and, wrapped in their snow-white vestments, looked like so many lengthened lines of vestal virgins ascending from the Gihon towards the gate. They were followed by the boys and young men, who made rude music, to which they kept time by clapping of hands. Now and then a spirited chant broke from the multitude, mingled with discharges of firearms amid the crowds. As the last rays of the sun gilded the domes and minarets of the mosques, the mass quickened its movement, and became denser as it pressed into the city through the massive winding portal, and disappeared gradually in the narrow, dark streets, when, in half an hour, an oppressive silence reigned throughout the

town.

The result of Mr. Young's application to the Pacha for our release from quarantine, or, at least, an abatement of the time, was the reference of the case to the physician, a very gentlemanly Italian. Our Greek servant, the very practicable Georgio Carracchi, insisted that there was no danger in discharging us, and that he was instructed to say we would be grateful, which any Italian understands. Then we learned that we should be released in seven days, the day we entered in the evening and the day we should go out in the morning being counted. At the end of the seven days the physician

appeared, and intimated that he looked for his reward; but George told him it was promised on condition that we should have been released at the time, and, as this was not done, he would not give him a piastre. We were not privy to these transactions at the time.

226

GENERAL VIEW OF THE CITY.

CHAPTER XXIII.

JERUSALEM.-WALK I.

The City Walls.-Walking under Guard.-General View of the City.-Valleys.-Hills.-Bezetha.-Its Appearance.-Moriah.-The Mosque of Omar. -Zion.-Akra.-Gloomy Appearance of the City.-The Environs.-The Mount of Olives.-Upper Pool of Gihon.-Lower Pool.-Hill of Offence.

It was irksome, indeed, to be thus detained five days from treading the streets of the Holy City, and visiting its consecrated places; but we found full employment for the first two in writing letters and bringing up our journals.

On the third and subsequent days we were permitted to walk round the walls, under the conduct of a guard, and thus we commanded every possible view of the city, and of nearly every spot of interest in the vicinity.

As it is not my intention to go into a topographical or antiquarian description of Jerusalem, but merely to present the reader with as clear an account as possible of what I saw myself, I shall narrate the several Walks which I took in and around the city, describing briefly the objects that presented themselves in detail. By inspecting Mr. Bartlett's excellent plan of Jerusalem which accompanies this volume, the reader will be able, I trust, to obtain a distinct conception of the general character of the city, and the many objects of interest both within and without the walls.

WALK I.

AROUND THE WALLS.-GENERAL VIEW OF THE CITY AND

ENVIRONS.

Our tent was pitched within the angle of the wall