three months' labour, with the aid of a hundred Arabs, he succeeded in uncovering the whole figure to its base. The paws extend fifty feet forward from the body, and between them is a large block of granite, sculptured in bas-reliefs and hieroglyphics, and several tablets, so arranged as to form a small temple, in front of which was a small lion, couchant, with its eyes directed towards the Sphinx. On the paws themselves several inscriptions were traced. The date of the Sphinx, according to Wilkinson, is B.C. 1446, in the time of Thotmes IV.; but this is doubtful.

64

TOMBS AND PYRAMIDS.-MUMMY-BIRDS.

CHAPTER VII.

ANCIENT MEMPHIS.

Sakhara.-Tombs and Pyramids.-Mummy Birds.-Metrahenny.-Site of Memphis. Return to Cairo.-Mr. Leider and the Coptic Mission.-Its Prospects.-Schools.-The Copts.-Their Number and Position in Egypt. -Their Doctrines and Church Government.

AFTER a hasty luncheon in one of the empty tombs cut in the perpendicular face of the rock, and now occupied by peasants, we set out at four o'clock for Sakhara. In two hours we came up with the pyramids, and in another reached the village. Knocking at the door of a mud cottage, we obtained admission, and leave to spread our pallets on the floor. After our hard day's work, sleep was grateful; but we were all up next day before the sun, and on the way to the Pyramids. They stand on the same rock-plain as those of Ghizeh, but it is here higher and more extensive, and literally honeycombed with tombs cut deep in the rock. The largest of the pyramids is built in successive terraces, diminishing to a point. We did not care to enter it, as there was nothing of special interest to be seen, but rambled over the fields of the dead that surround it. They have been dug over and over again by the Arabs in search of mummies, for the sake of the scarabei of silver, gold, or porcelain which are often found within the folds of the wrapping, and are sold as antiques. In consequence of this rifling of the tombs, the whole plain is thickly strown with human bones and mummy linen.

On the northeast edge of the plain is the singular repository of mummy-birds, cut in the solid rock. There are wide subterranean avenues, from which lateral cuts

METRAHENNY.-SITE OF MEMPHIS.

65

are made in various directions, and these are the receptacles of the mummy-birds. Creeping, or, rather, sliding in feet foremost, over the loose sand which nearly blocked up the entrance, we found ourselves in the midst of millions of these singular remains of antiquity. The mummified birds, neatly wrapped in linen, were enclosed each in a rough, earthen crock, nearly in the shape of a sugar-loaf, and sealed up tightly with a gray ceWe broke open several, and found some of the birds well preserved, while others crumbled into a black powder the moment they were exposed to the air. I had a half dozen of the jars carried to Cairo and sent home for the museum of Dickinson College. An Arab promised also to deliver a mummy for me in the city, but he broke it to pieces in bringing it down.

ment.

From Sakhara we crossed the lower plain eastward towards the river to the village of Metrahenny. Here are found vast heaps of ruins, amid which brick walls and arches are discernible; and scattered over the plain, amid the palm-trees, are many fine blocks of marble and fragments of granite columns. Here, too, is a colossal statue of Sesostris, fallen on its side, amid the foundation walls of the edifice it had adorned. It was formerly concealed by soil and rubbish, which have recently been removed, and the statue, at the time of our visit, was lying in a shallow pond of water, exposed in length twenty-five feet, from the knee to the top of the head. We were on the site of the ancient Memphis, and this was all that remained of the proud capital of Egypt, while the tombs of her Pharaohs and their subjects still stand, and their bones whiten at this hour upon the edge of the desert.

We recrossed the river some distance above Ghizeh, and descending the eastern bank, passed through

66

AN INCIDENT.-REV. MR. LEIDER.

the ruins of the Persian Babylon, and of Fostat, the first city of the Caliphs, and entered Cairo by the gate on the southeast. Paul led the way, Mr. D. followed, I followed Mr. D., all at the top of the speed of our spirited animals, made still more spirited by the driver of each lashing him at every leap. We threaded the narrow streets, dashed through the Italian bazar, and arrived at our hotel without having done any other mischief than my unveiling a woman by the rowel of my spur (which, by some strange Arab whim, was on the outside instead of the inside of the stirrup) catching her shawl and carrying it suddenly away. I let my foot go back as far as possible, and became disentangled without stopping. I confess, if I had been governor of Cairo, I would have arrested the Christian dogs for so indiscreet and dangerous a feat. The only apology I can offer is, that I did not lead, but follow, somewhat against my will, calling out to Paul and Mr. D. to slacken their speed; but they heeded not, and my donkey-driver would not be left behind. We proved such good riders as to elude collision with camel, donkey, humble pedestrian, or grave Turk on horseback, though we ran by them a thousand times like a well-adjusted piece of machinery moving in a groove.

I spent two Sabbaths in Cairo, and had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the Rev. Mr. Leider, the Church missionary, and his estimable wife. We were indebted to them for kind attentions, good advice, and much useful information.* Mr. L. and his colleague, the Rev. Mr. Kruse, are the only Protestant missiona* At their hospitable board I met with several interesting persons, among whom was the Rev. Dr. Wilson, from India, now engaged for the Scotch Church in inquiring into the condition of the Jews in the East. I also met with the wife of the French consul, a native of Sennaar, a district adjoining Abyssinia.

COPTIC MISSION. THEIR SCHOOLS, ETC.

67

ries in Egypt. They have been about fifteen years engaged in the mission at Cairo, designed for the benefit of the Copts; but such is the jealousy of these native Christians that the missionaries can have but little access to them. I twice attended divine service in the mission Chapel, and found perhaps twenty persons present, and most of these Franks. I think there were not half a dozen native Christians. The hopes of the mission are in their schools, one of which is designed to prepare teachers for the Coptic population. As yet, however, there has been but little encouragement for these young teachers, owing to the disinclination of the common people to be taught. Of course, the young men who have been educated for teachers, finding no employment in schools, enter the government service as clerks and accountants, and thus fail to accomplish the object of their education. In this respect the mission is incidentally made to subserve the interests of the Pacha. There are two other schools, one for boys, under the care of Mr. Leider, and one for girls, under the inspection of Mrs. L. The pupils are taught the elements of a common education, and carefully instructed in religion. But it is feared they are too young, when they depart from the schools, to influence their community, and most of them resume the same religious views and feelings which prevail among their people.

Yet, notwithstanding these discouragements, there is hope in the mission. It is as a mustard-seed, and may grow, as a little leaven that may leaven the whole lump. The elements of Christianity in Egypt are not inconsiderable, whether we regard the number of native Christians, the organization of their churches, or their relative influence in the state.

The Copts constitute the great body of native Chris