to the left; so they were nothing more at a loss than a town-bred man among the streets of the city in which he was born."

They knew each lane, and every alley green,
Dingle, or bushy dell of that wild wood,
And every bosky bourn from side to side."

I have endeavoured to preserve correct memoranda of the geographical positions of different locations in the mountains, and have embodied them in the map appended to this narrative. Little remains to be added to complete the account here offered of the districts which have so long been contemplated with awe. I may merely mention that the tribes appear to be a hardy race, by no means deficient in daring courage and a spirit of enterprise. They are very numerous, amounting in one single encampment near Pellaut to five thousand men, and no doubt make efficient soldiers in time of war; but must be troublesome subjects when the Persian sovereign has no need of their military assistance. In the observance of prayer, and the various religious ceremonies enjoined

by the Koran, the Buctiarians manifest a zeal and sincerity rarely perceptible amongst the inhabitants of towns. They have no mosques, nor do they need them amidst such a chaos of Nature's wonders. Human edifices, however sacred their purposes, would contribute little to elevate the thoughts, if so many sublime marks of the Creator's power were inefficient instruments. The Buctiarian, like the "early Persian," makes

"His altar the high places, and the peak
Of earth o'ergazing mountains :"

and in these "unwalled temples” seeks—

“The spirit—in whose honour shrines are weak
Uprear'd of human hands.”

CHAPTER VIII.

Reach Isfahan-Julfa-The Armenians--Plans for the improvement of their condition-A Convent and a Nunnery-A vestry dinner-Depart for Tabreez-Further detention-Adventures in a tomb-Journey over untrodden ground-Castor oil and leeches--General sketch of a new route through the heart of PersiaReach Tabreez-Kindness of the acting Envoy.

THREE days after the rencontre mentioned in the preceding chapter, we reached Isfahan,weary, sick, impoverished; in short, as Hajee Baba would express it, we had little left us but our souls. I took up my abode in a spacious caravanserai, but, as soon as I was able to crawl, removed from this offensive public haunt to a magnificent yet solitary dwelling in the adjoining village of Julfa. Here I endeavoured

to check the progress of the fever which had been my diurnal companion for the previous three weeks. My efforts, however, were unsuccessful; the enemy harassed me to such a degree, that in spite of the cheerful society of two or three charitable Armenians, the soothing companionship of flowers, fountains, and a decent library of English books belonging to my host, a few visits to Isfahan, and strolls about Julfa, my malady produced a temporary aberration of intellect. Nothing but a change of scene restored my health and senses.

The reader, if he wishes for a description of Isfahan, must consult the valuable and elaborate works of Chardin, Porter, Malcolm, Ouseley, and others. I can speak of nothing that the lovers of oriental splendour delight to hear. Every thing, to my perception, spoke of misgovernment, poverty, and oppression. Ruined caravanserais, decaying mosques, deserted palaces, empty shops-these are now the characteristics of this once famous metropolis. Nature, I suspect, is not less bountiful than erst she was, for the bazaars are still abundantly

supplied with the richest fruits and vegetables; but the hand of industry and the lights of science are wanting to controul her luxuriance. Noxious vegetation now spreads itself unchecked over the fairest gardens, and while it affects the salubrity of the city, must sooner or later poison the soil, and obstruct the growth of useful products.

The condition of the Armenian colony of Julfa, which has attracted the attention of former travellers and excited their regrets, did not altogether escape my observation; and I am happy to be able to say, that there seems to be grounds for hoping that the industrious Christian community inhabiting this district will ere long see better days. The Persians seem to think that they have done their worst towards these people, or possibly they appre

hend that Abbas Meerza, who it is expected will fix his residence at Isfahan on his accession to the throne, and who is notoriously favourable to the Armenians, will retaliate the "woes and pains" of oppression upon those who may be rash enough to tempt his vengeance. In addi