CHAPTER X.

Departure from Tabreez-My domestic- Picturesque Villages A Barber-Khoie-Disagreeable receptionFertility of Khoré-Persians bad marksmen-Change of scene-Turks-Mount Ararat-Gay encampment— Koords.

THE caravans had ceased, for the season, to proceed to Arzeroum, and no plan of advance offered itself but that of hiring four or five horses, and taking the road under the guidance of the owner of the cattle. This was arranged for me by my worthy host, Mr. Nesbitt, for the sum of twenty tomauns, half of which it was stipulated should be paid in advance. nights were fine, and Cynthia (as a poet would say) diffused a soft and silvery light o'er hill

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and plain. I therefore stipulated for nocturnal marches, and a daily halt in a village; for I had suffered so much from a coup de soleil, and the glare of mid-day, in the southern plains, that I was determined not again to risk similar consequences.

It was my object, on reaching Tabreez, to rest a few days and then to push on to Teflis en route to Tcherkask, across the Caucasas, intending subsequently to proceed to Poland. The advanced period of the season, the prevalence of the cholera and consequent quarantines, added to the distracted state of the country, owing to the war then raging, induced me, by the advice of Captain Campbell, to change my plans; and, accordingly, Constantinople now became my destination.

I quitted Tabreez early in September, accompanied by the owner of the horses, and my servant Ishmael-a short, stout, blear-eyed native of Tehraun, who had succeeded to the office of valet, vacant by the retirement of Rajmalée, alias Meshedee. The latter was bent on his pilgrimage; and being, moreover, ignorant of

the Turkish language, could render me no further service. I parted with Meshedee with some regret. Our acquaintance had commenced in the mountains of Buctiari, where he was in the habit of walking by the side of my horse, beguiling the journey with stories and anecdotes, plucking fragrant flowers for my amusement, and eagerly running to fetch me water whenever we approached a cool streamlet. These services, for which he could with difficulty be prevailed on to accept any remuneration, forcibly recommended him to my employ ; and, if any other inducement were wanting, I recollected he had manifested a great deal of courage and spirit in our brush with the mountaineers. As a forager on the road from Isfahan, he was invaluable, frequently going two or three miles, after a long night's march, to purchase milk, fruit, and bread, for his master's refreshment.

As I have said, we left Tabreez on the night of the 9th of September. My equipage consisted of four horses; one of which bore my khoordjs, or travelling bags, filled with clothes,

and another carried the provisions sent me by Captain Campbell. My servant and self bestrode the remaining two.

I confess the prospect of the present journey did not produce the same agreeable sensations as my recent peregrination. I was now to go over, to a certain degree, oft-beaten ground; and a sense of comparative security repressed all that excitement which constitutes the charm of travel. I would not have it believed that I affect to love danger, and court it for its own sake: no; like many a gay spirit that marches to battle with an ensign's glittering epaulette and a maiden sword, I merely wished for a rencontre for the sake of the subsequent eclat, taking it for granted that the same guardian genius which had brought me out of past difficulties would preside over my destinies in future skirmishes. But there seemed little chance of any further interruption. Between Tabreez and Bayazeed the country was said to be in a state of tranquillity, and between Arzeroum and Trebisond there was likewise secure travelling. It was merely hinted that in the journey from Bayazeed to Arze

roum I should encounter a few

encampments of Koords, who might be inclined to offer molestation unless a well-known officer of the government was appointed to accompany me. This was scarcely encouraging enough, and I accordingly started in a very sullen humour.

The first night we reached the village of Maiyun, where we remained until the following evening, when we again set off, and by dawn the next day arrived at Dizzur-Khul'l.

Though averse to travelling during the heat of the day, I had no objection, after repose, to stroll through the different villages where we halted, and to examine their peculiarities. They were, in the districts through which we now passed, eminently pretty and rich in fertility. Dizzur-Khul'l appeared to be a populous, extensive, and extremely fruitful village, abounding in luxuriant vines, peach and pear trees, poplars, the willow, the cypress, the sycamore, and the ash. Streams of sweet water ran through the centre of each street or lane in the village, while the vine forced its way through the walls of each garden, and overhung their