abreast of it, than numerous flocks of sheep and goats issued from the main portal. There are many such buildings along the banks of these rivers, and up the Ahwas and Karoon streams, and their style of architecture is singularly characteristic of the people by whom they are erected. As they unite the warrior profession with the shepherd's peaceful craft, so do their penfolds combine the external aspect of a fortress with the simple purpose of enclosing flocks.

Towards evening we met a large passage boat coming from Bagdad, and filled with passengers. They called out that the plague had broken out with great violence in Bagdad, and that every body, including the British resident and suite, was retreating. On learning this, I judged it prudent to lay-to, and burning a torch at the head of the boat, desired my people to hail the vessel of the resident as soon as it should make its appearance. This occurred a little after midnight. Major Taylor caused his sail to be taken in, and on my approach advised my not venturing into his vessel, as he

"had the plague on board." Three persons were ill; one of whom, the Major's brother-inlaw, subsequently died. Major Taylor informed me that the plague was raging with great fury at Bagdad; that all business was at a stand; that the whole country between Constantinople and Bagdad was in a state of convulsion owing to the misunderstanding between the Sultaun and Daoud Pasha; and that the desert between Bagdad and Aleppo was flooded by the river, and impassable for caravans. This completely satisfied me that it was vain to attempt prosecuting my journey by the route originally intended. I therefore, at the suggestion of Major Taylor, returned to Bussorah, in view to arrangements for another trip.

On our way back, circumstances occurred to give a very different and a very distressing aspect to the scenery of the Euphrates. The river, which does not ordinarily rise until the month of June, now rose with inconceivable rapidity, preceded by a violent storm, and in a few hours inundated the whole Irâk. Number

less villages of matted huts were swept away; men, women, and children, were in a moment rendered houseless; 'numerous cattle and sheep were drowned; date trees torn up by the roots, and boats swamped or stranded. The artificial banks of the river, which had governed our progress upwards, were now overflowed, and it was with the greatest difficulty we could discover the river's bed and escape getting aground.

25th. A fair wind carried us this morning to Kuzzeem, where we were detained, and informed that the motesellim of Bussorah had given orders for the arrest of all vessels coming from Bagdad, and for requiring of them an unlimited quarantine. It was in vain I protested we had only been part of the way to Bagdad; the armed vagabonds who boarded us insisted on our stay. I therefore demanded an interview with the old officer who had stopped us for "gomruck" on the 18th instant, and having refreshed his recollection of my person with a piastre, was permitted to proceed.

A little lower down we suffered a similar

interruption from a boat-load of Arabs, but contrived with a loud tongue and a trifling present to remove it.

CHAPTER III.

Bussorah again-Change of scene-The "functionary" under a new aspect-Cases of Plague-The Pasha of Bagdad-His career-Political Views and Reflections -A few suggestions regarding the Steam Navigation of the Tigris and Euphrates.

ON my arrival at Bussorah, I took up my quarters at the residency; and after a refreshing bath strolled through the town. But what a change had been effected in seven short days! Intelligence of the approach of the plague had spread consternation throughout the city, and had sent thousands of its inhabitants into retreat. The shops were closed-trade at a stand -the streets deserted-houses tenantless-the oft busy creek had scarcely a boat moving on