the females, he informed us, that our appearance had awakened their fears; that they had assured him, "We were either travelling rob"bers, or prisoners who had broken from gaol; "that the packs at our backs were full of the plunder we had picked up, and without "doubt we should rob and murder him, when "we had seduced him from his dwelling." Jn had taken with him from home a map of North-Wales, and a small pocket compass, and it was now we found their utility and importance. By shewing and explaining these to our conductor, he marked out what course we were to make for, since every thing like a path had long since faded away, and nothing but untrodden heath was before us. We therefore rewarded the confidence of our guide with a handsome present, and took leave of him; who, after giving us very particular directions, many blessings, and shaking us heartily by the hand, (a token of kindness which these mountaineers never fail to offer) committed us to the wild hills of Merionethshire. Examining occasionally the map, and looking at the compass, we kept a straight-forward course, reckless of paths, descending into the vallies, and climbing the mountains as they` respectively occurred. It was, indeed, a toilsome mode of journeying; but we were fully repaid for all our labour, by a view which suddenly opened on our gaining the summit of a lofty elevation. On the right rose the broad majestic head of Plinhimmon, the father of rivers, with all his dependant mountains; immediately in front we had the black precipices and shaggy sides of Cader-Idris; and behind him, to the north-east, the sharp point of the Arran seemed to pierce the skies. The great bay of Cardigan, with the dark promontories of Merioneth and Caernarvonshire to the north, and the high cliffs of Pembrokeshire to the south, with the ocean stretching to the horizon, compleated the august scene. Descending from this commanding height, we soon found ourselves in a delicious little valley, which, from the circumstances of the scenery round, we could not help comparing to one of those beautiful spots or islands of vegetation and social life, that sometimes occur in the great deserts of Africa. It was a close sequestered dale, containing three or four cottages, neatly whitewashed, and covered with reeds. Through this bottom a small river, clear as crystal, poured its murmuring flood, overshadowed by a wood of various trees, amongst which the ash, beech, and fir, formed most appropriate and picturesque ornaments. A narrow strip of meadow, through which the river ran, produced the little crop of grass that the inhabitants were busied in getting in. This labour was performed by men, women, and children, all actively employed; some of them carried it home on their shoulders, others in hand-barrows, whilst a third party filled and drove the sleds made use of in Wales, which drag upon the ground without wheels, and are drawn by a little poney. All was animation and industry. The scene enchanted us, for it. was rendered doubly impressive by the contrast it exhibited to that we had just quittedbarren mountains and unbounded prospects. In hopes of procuring more particular directions than our map afforded us, we enquired the way to Machynlleth of the villagers, but not a soul of them could speak English; we were therefore obliged to proceed without any additional information. In the mean time, evening closed upon us, the rain began to fall, and we heard the rumbling of distant thunder. We therefore quickened our pace, but in spite of our efforts, before we could reach any car riage track, the shades of night had fallen, and wrapt us in complete darkness. Our situation was certainly not very agreeable, as we had every prospect of spending an inclement night in the open air. We proceeded, however, but were soon stopped by the thunder of a cataract, which convinced us we were in the immediate neighbourhood of precipices and gulphs. Whilst we were deliberating what plan to adopt, the quick organs of C. C-ll caught the sound of horses' feet, and finding in a few moments that he was not deceived, we went to the spot from whence they appeared to come, where, to our great joy, we found a miller's boy, who was returning from the country to Machynlleth. We felt with additional force the good fortune of this meeting, when he informed us that we were again turning towards the mountains, on which we should probably have slept, provided we had not been drowned in the torrent we were just going to plunge into. The honest fellow brought us safely to the Red-Lion inn, where comfort and civility have made us forget both fatigue and alarm. Your's, &c. R. W. |