MARSEILLES-JEWISH RABBI.

15

Before morning the wind changed, and by half-past eight we reached Marseilles, where we found rest at the Hotel du Pavilion. The approach to the city from the sea is magnificent-high hills or rather rocks form the west side of the entrance, and deep blue waters-deep even in the midst of the harbour-floated up the vessel to its anchorage. The harbour is formed by the sea running into a natural basin, which is always full, the ebb of the tide being less than six feet deep. It is defended by very strong fortifications, and these are splendidly built. Ships from all nations ride at anchor in the harbour, and people of all countries are found in its streets. The population is 150,000-of these only 2000 are even nominally Protestant. They have, however, three evangelical pastors, with a Sabbath school attended by 60 children, and a week-day school attended by 50 girls and 40 boys-both of very recent origin. This information was given to us by one of the pastors, M. Monod. We found time to call on the Rabbi, a smart Frenchman. Though a Jew, his opinions are those of the Neologians. He denies the fall of man, believes that the curse on the ground was a blessing, and that a new heart means the improvement of the mind. He rejects the Talmud, and though he does not avow his rejection of the Bible, yet denies the restoration of Israel to their own land; and disbelieves the promise of a Messiah, on the ground that the good of the universe, and not of one nation, is what we are to look for. Most of the young Jews here are quite given up to the world, and cherish infidel views. The Rabbi was willing to take tracts-was proud to shew his synagogue-and said that there were about 1000 Jews in the town. We got more information in the evening; but there is very little to interest a friend of Israel here.

We had by this time ascertained that a steamer had sailed for Malta the day before, and that we must wait ten days for another. We resolved, therefore, to spend the time in visiting as much of Italy as we could. A boat was about to sail for Leghorn called the "Sully," in which we embarked, enjoying a most beautiful day, and smooth sea. The vessel coasted the shore, which is bold and precipitous. We had a near view of Toulon, the bay of the French navy, and the place where Napoleon first pointed the cannon. Its harbour is shut in by hills, and strongly fortified.

The Isle of Hieres next came in sight, whose salubri

16

SAIL TO LEGHORN-ALLASIO-GENOA.

ous climate draws invalids to its shores. The scenery continued rocky and picturesque-the waters deep blue, and calm-" a glassy sea." At night the moon rose clear, and the stars were very brilliant; the waters glittered with peculiar brightness under such a firmament. We united in prayer in the cabin, and "slept in peace, for God sustained us."

At seven next morning we were on the coast of Italy. Numerous villages attracted the eye, built of stone that seemed remarkably white and clean, especially under the morning sun. Omeglia, Allasio, Albenga, were all successively pointed out close to the water-edge; the oliveclad Alps (Alpes maritimae) pressing hard upon them in the background. Allasio stands on a hill, and the spire of its church is a fine object. The hills round these towns are dotted with villas, and this continued to be the aspect of the coast till we reached Genoa. Italy is indeed a beautiful region, but "gross darkness covers its people." The engineer of our vessel, a pious Presbyterian of the Synod of Ulster, agreed to circulate tracts on board, if we would send a supply; and proposed to give them to the other engineers along this coast, all of whom are Englishmen and Protestants.

We entered the splendid bay of Genoa about midday. The finest view of Genoa is from the sea. The eye is almost dazzled in wandering round the bay, by the irregular tiers of marble palaces, fantastic towers, and spires, the remnants of ancient days. The whiteness of the marble and the bright colouring of many of the houses, have a very striking appearance. Steep sloping hills enclose it from behind, and it is walled and fortified on every side; the cannon pointing down upon the town. Entering the harbours, the galley-slaves loaded with chains attracted our attention. They work in a floating machine, like the tread-mill, used for bringing up the mud of the harbour. They are sentenced by fiction of law, not for life, but for 120 years.

On landing we were examined by the police. Our names and the place where we meant to lodge in the city were demanded, betraying a jealousy which made us feel that we were no longer in a free country. We took up our residence at the Hotel Croix de St. Malte.

The streets of Genoa are very narrow, and delightfully cool. Originally carriages could not go along them, but now some of them are made a little broader. Most of the houses have pilasters and entrances of white marble.

Some are entirely built of marble. One lately built by Paganini was pointed out to us. It is very common to sce pictures fixed into the walls on the outside of the houses, in the porches, and even in the interior of hotels. Among these, the picture of Andrea Doria frequently

occurs.

The appearance of the inhabitants attracted our notice. The females wear a beautiful veil, which covers the back part of the head and the shoulders, meeting over the breast. Some wear it of a fine white, some of bright variegated colours; to all it gives a clean, tidy appearance. The number of Ecclesiastics here is remarkable. We met twenty-eight in the priests' dress in a ten minutes' walk. Of these many are not priests, but all are connected with the ecclesiastical office. We here also, for the first time, met with sandaled Monks, bare-headed, rough-looking men, the Dominicans in a brown, and the Franciscans in a black dress; the rude cord round the waist and pendent crucifix, the bare head, and cowl, marking them all.

It was new to us to see oranges growing in the open air, often in flower-pots set upon the terrace or balcony, and everywhere in the gardens. In the evening we enjoyed a walk in the promenade, adorned with shady trees, marble seats, and a fine jet d'eau, while hoarse croaking frogs reminded us of Virgil's "ranae raucae." We ascended a fortified place, and looked down upon the town. We observed the olive, the vine, and the lemon, in the gardens, and the dark shady cypress in the church-yards. The evening bells were ringing, and every tower seemed to send forth a sound. Returning, we saw the fine effect of moonlight on marble buildings, giving them a soft and pleasing tinge. At the corner of every street a lamp was lighted up before a picture of Madonna, and an offering of fresh flowers laid before it. We also met the fashionables issuing forth to the spectacle or theatre, a page lighting their steps with a bright silk lantern, all as intent on pleasure, as if the day of Babylon's doom was afar off. "They glorify themselves, and live deliciously; they say in their heart, I sit a queen, and am no widow, and shall see no sorrow."*

(April 25.) We began our inquiries yesterday, but received fuller information this day. We called upon the Swiss Protestant minister, who received us kindly. Genoa

* Rev. xviii. 7.

contains from 90,000 to 100,000 inhabitants. Of these, only 25 are British residents, and 150 Swiss, and these have one place of worship between them. He told us that they are allowed to worship only by the sufferance of Government: they are strictly watched, and no Italian would be allowed to join their communion, even though convinced of the truth. He appeared to be sadly disheartened. Happy day when Evangelists shall be permitted to stand and proclaim the truth in the streets of Genoa! We waited upon the English Consul, who introduced us to Signor Becchi, the vice-consul, a Roman Catholic, but a very mild, candid, amiable man. He and a young English gentleman, a merchant from Ancona, gave us information regarding the Jews. They have a synagogue here, but there are only about 250 residents. The reason of there being so few, is said to be, that "one Genoese has cunning enough to cheat two Jews." So they say of Lucca, that "one Luccese can overreach three Jews."

The Jews here are not strict in their religious observances, but often do business on their Sabbath, and several of them have become Roman Catholics. Only three or four months ago, a family of seven were baptized with great pomp, simply for the sake of worldly gain. There was also recently a Jewish child baptized in the Protestant church; but the reason was, that the mother was a Protestant, and had made that agreement at her marriage. There are not more than four or five Jewish families of wealth and respectability in the town.

Signor Becchi introduced us to a Jew from Gibraltar. named Moses Parienti, an elderly man, of an amiable disposition, and one who was well acquainted with his nation. His beard was undressed, which he begged us to excuse, as he was then in mourning for the recent death of his wife. He told us, that in Genoa there are few learned Jews, and most of them are poor. He reckoned about fifty families; but many move from place to place. They are not now, he said, admitted to the casinos (clubs), although formerly they were; at which exclusion many of the citizens expressed regret. He knows that, in Italy, Roman Catholics are willing to receive Jewish children and baptize them, if the nurses do (what is sometimes done) carry them off, and take them to a priest; and, according to his statement, throughout all Tuscany, the Jews enjoy perfect freedom. He represented Leghorn as the chief place in Italy for them, and

thought that there were nearly 14,000 there, with forty managers to take charge of their civil concerns, and a flourishing school for boys and girls. He offered us letters to Signore Abodram and Franchetti, who are at the head of the nation there. There are no Jews at Civita Vecchia. The King of Naples allows none to dwell in his dominions. There are none in Sardinia, because that island was part of the Spanish kingdom of Arragon, from which all were expelled. Not long ago, a Jew named Israel went there in disguise, but was at last forced to flee. There are none in Corsica. The French do not forbid it, but the native population are bigoted to excess. At Milan there are 1500, and some have property in land. At Verona, Pavia, Padua, Parma, and Venice, a good number are found. At Florence and Modena, there are a few; and at Pisa also; but the families there are chiefly from Leghorn. At Ferrara, Becchi reckoned about 4000 souls. At Turin there are 50 Spanish, and 1500 German Jews; the latter of whom have a fine synagogue, and use a different liturgy from the Spanish. At Nice there are 400 or 500, and many of them from England. Nine months ago, an order was issued by government to put them in ghetto; but the Prussian Consul there being a Jew refused to go, and his remonstrances had the effect of leaving the matter undetermined. At Lucca none are allowed to settle, but many reside for a short time. Every three months they must get from the Duke a new permission to remain. Through all Piedmont they enjoy considerable liberty; and hence Jews are found at Trieste, Cassagli, Asti, Alessandria, Acqui, and Cuneo. At Rome, there are 5000 or 6000 who live in ghetto; and though much oppressed, yet still remain, because they make money. At Gibraltar there used to be 6000 families, but these are now reduced to 2000. At Corfu there are many. A few at Athens. The Portuguese consul-general there, Signor Pacifico, was a Jew from Lisbon.

Signor Becchi spoke of the contributions made by the Jews for the Holy Land. They keep boxes in the synagogues, over which it is written, "For Jerusalem," or, "For Saphet," &c.; and at a certain time, a commissioner is appointed to see what these contain, and to send the contents to the Holy Land. The Jews of Italy write pure Hebrew, and not Italian in Hebrew characters. He said they write really pa (lashon hakkodesh), "the holy tongue."