than any to be found in other parts of | the Continent. The rides, walks, and views in the vicinity are delightful, and almost endless; but the great charm of every prospect is the Mont Blanc, and the range of Alps of Savoy, when they deign to show themselves, which they do not, in perfect distinctness, more than 60 times a year on an average. There cannot be a more lovely sight than that of Mont Blanc, and the surrounding Aiguilles, tinged with the pink hue which the departing sun sheds upon them in certain states of the atmosphere. a. The junction of the Arve with the Rhone is worth visiting, and is best seen either from the tongue of land between the two rivers, which is reached on foot over the wire bridge to the rt. of the Porte Neuve, along the L bank of the Rhone by the gasworks, or from the grounds of a country-house called Châtellaine, or Campagne Matthieu, on the rt. bank of the Rhone, about 1 m. beyond the Porte de Cornavin. On the way to it, Les Délices, a country-house of Voltaire, is passed. The Arve, a furious torrent fed by the snows and glaciers of Mont Blanc, looks like a river of mud. The pellucid blue waters of the Rhone, driven on one side by the furious entrance of its new ally, for a long time refuse to mix with it, and the line of separation between the blue and white water is distinctly marked. At length the Arve gains the mastery; and the Rhone, once polluted, does not recover its purity before reaching the sea. b. On the S.E. side of Geneva rises the Mont Salève, a long line of limestone precipices, seeming to impend over the town, though it is, in reality, 5 m. off, and within the Sardinian territory. Those who are acquainted with Edinburgh may be reminded of Salisbury Crags in looking at it. The S. side of this mountain is a gentle slope, covered with verdant pasture and sprinkled with houses. The whole of this vast inclined plane, facing the Alps, is strewn over with fragments of rock (protogine), identical with that of which Mont -a Blanc is composed. By what agency they have been transported hitherdistance of 50 m., as the crow flieslet the geologist explain. The largest of these masses is 7 ft. long. The summit of the Salève, more than 3100 ft. above the lake, is frequently scaled by the inhabitants of Geneva, who make picnic parties to enjoy the view from its summit. The shortest road to it is by Carouge and Veyrier, 3 m.; whence a very steep path, practicable only on foot, leads up a gap in the mountain, partly formed by steps cut in the rock, and called Pas de l'Echelle, to the village of Monetier (pronounced Monté) 24 m. Those who cannot walk may reach Monetier by a carriage-road, which makes a détour of 8 m. from Geneva, through the beautiful village of Mornex, at the back of the mountain. The pleasantest way is to be driven to Monetier, thence to ascend the Petit or the Grand Salève on foot, and to descend the Pas de l'Echelle on foot to Veyrier, whither the carriage may be sent round to wait for the party. From Monetier to the top is about 2 m. The view extends S. up the valley of the Arve over the Mole to Mont Blanc; E. over a vast expanse of the lake; N. to the town of Geneva, the Rhone, and the Jura behind; W. the eye follows the valley of the Rhone as far as the gap in the Jura mountain, through which the river forces its way into France. c. On the S. shore of the lake, about 2 m. from Geneva, and a little to the 1. of the high road to Thonon, is the Campagne Diodati, Lord Byron's residence in 1816, where he wrote 'Manfred,' and the third canto of 'Childe Harold.' d. Ferney, the residence of Voltaire, once an object of great attraction to travellers, is situated within the French territory, about 5 m. N. of Geneva, on the road to Paris by Gex. On the way thither, near Grand Saconnex, an eminence presents one of the best points of view of Mont Blanc. Voltaire resided for nearly 20 years at Ferney, from 1759 to 1777. He may be said to be the founder of the the ante-room was a singular picture, painted by some artist of signpost capacity, but designed by Voltaire himself. On the 1. hand he appeared in the act of being introduced to Apollo by Henry IV., who holds in his hand a copy of the 'Henriade.' On the opposite side the same Voltaire was seen conducted in triumph by the Muses to the temple of Memory, while his enemies and detractors, prostrated before him, writhed in torments beneath his feet. The situation of Ferney is charming, in full view of the lake and of Mont Blanc; but excepting those of the Library the windows of the house are turned directly away from_the landscape. In the garden is a long berceau walk, closely arched over with clipped horn-beam—a verdant cloister, with gaps cut in it here and there, admitting a glimpse of the prospect. Here he used to walk up and down, and dictate to his secretary. Among the trees of the grove round the house is an elm planted by his own hand in 1763: it was struck by lightning in 1824. The old gardener of Voltaire, who was living till 1845, related some curious particulars of his master. He was always addressed by the people of the village as "Monseigneur.” drove out every day in a gilt coach, drawn by 4 horses; and he was a terror to all the little boys he met in his village, which, before his time, con- It was set up by his adopted daughter, the Marquise de Villette, and bore a strong resemblance to a German stove. By the side of it hung portraits of his seamstress, of the Savoyard boy his servant, and of Pope Ganganelli. In He e. Perte du Rhône.-For travellers who are unacquainted with the route from Lyons to Geneva, the excursion to the Perte du Rhône at Bellegarde, on the French frontier, may be recommended. The distance is about 16 m., and by starting early it may easily be accomplished in a day. The road lies through St. Genix, where it turns off to the W., and skirts the base of the Jura to Collonges. A little beyond this village you enter "where the swift Rhone cleaves his way between Heights which appear as lovers who have parted." The lofty Vuache on the side of Savoy, and the huge mass of the highest part of the Jura chain, slope pre cipitously down to the torrent of the Rhone. The road hangs midway in this prodigious passage; and the celebrated Fort de l'Ecluse, the fortress which gives its name to the pass, commands this entrance of France. Infinite labour and expense have been used by the French government to strengthen this position. Additional batteries have been hewn in the rock above the lower fortress, and these communicate with the guard-rooms below by a broad stair-case, more than 100 feet in height, hewn inside the solid mountain. Leave may sometimes be obtained from the governor to view the fortress; but at any rate the road passes through it, and enables the traveller to see something of its remarkable defences. From Collonges to Bellegarde (Hôtel de la Poste) the road sweeps along the wild gorge through which the Rhone pours. At Bellegarde it crosses the narrow and rocky bed of the Valserine. The traveller will walk from the inn to the Perte du Rhône (of a mile); he will find plenty of squalid guides to show him the spot where the river, which he has accompanied from the clear cistern of its waters through the rough mountain pass, plunges at once beneath an accumulation of broken rocks which have fallen from above and covered its bed from side to side. When the waters are tolerably low, as in the spring or winter, the whole river is absorbed for a distance of 120 yards; but the Sardinian government, to facilitate the floatage of timber, &c., has blown up a considerable portion of the covering rocks and laid bare the channel. The bed of the Valserine is more picturesque, and scarcely less curious than the Perte. It is also deeply cut in the rock, but not so deep as the bed of the Rhone, consequently has to make a leap to join it. At the junction are some very picturesque mills (Moulin de Mussel), one of which was nearly annihilated by a falling rock, 1844. It is worth while to descend from the garden of the inn into the worn channel of this little river, which is almost dry in summer time, except where a runlet of its water burrows into the | clefts and fantastic bends of the calcareous rock. f. Another pleasant excursion may be made to D'Ivoune, where the river Versoix takes its rise in a pretty grotto at the foot of the Jura; and people go to eat the small delicate trout which are taken in it. The view from the terrace of the Château d'Ivoune is very fine. The best road to go is by Coppet and Celigny (where the waterfalls should also be visited), and to return by Ferney. The distance from Geneva to D'Ivoune is 12 m. Chamouni and Lake Leman may be explored in 4 days from Geneva-thus, 1st, by early steamer to Lausanne or Vevay-by 2nd steamer on to Chillon -in the evening by the Milan diligence to Martigny; 2nd, by the Tête Noire or Col de Balm to Chamouni (R. 115); 3rd, at Chamouni; 4th, back to Geneva. The Lake of Geneva, called by the Romans Lacus Lemanus, has nearly the shape of a half-moon, its horns being turned towards the S. It is the largest lake in Switzerland, being 55 m. long, measured close to its N. shore, and about 40 m. along its S. bank; it is 6 m. wide at the broadest part (between Rolle and Thonon), and its greatest depth (between Evian and Ouchy) is 900 ft. Its waters often vary in one year more than 50 inches, being usually lowest in the winter, between January and April, and highest in August and part of July and September, owing to the supplies then derived from the melting snows and glaciers. Besides these periodical variations, the Lake is subject to other more arbitrary changes of level, called seiches. This phenomenon consists of a sudden rise and fall of the water in particular parts of the lake, independently of the agency of the wind or of any other apparent cause. It is most common in the vicinity of Geneva. During these oscillations the waters sometimes rise 5 ft., though the usual increase is not more than 2; it never lasts longer than 25 minutes, but it is generally less. The cause of these seiches has not been explained with certainty, but it is believed to depend upon the unequal pressure of the atmosphere upon different parts of the served to occur most commonly when surface of the lake; and they are obthe clouds are heavy and low. The lake never freezes over entirely, owing to its great depth; but in severe winters the lower extremity is covered with ice. The sand and mud brought down by the Rhone and deposited around its mouth have caused considerable encroachments upon its upper extremity: even within the records of history Porte Vallais stood on its margin, and its basin is reported to have originally extended upwards as far as Bex. "Mon lac est le premier," are the words in which Voltaire has vaunted the beauties of the Lake of Geneva; and it must be confessed that, though it wants the gloomy sublimity of the Bay of Uri and the sunny softness of the Italian lakes, with their olive and citron groves, it has high claims to admiration. It also possesses great variety of scenery. The vine-covered slopes of Vaud contrast well with the abrupt, rocky precipices of Savoy. Near Geneva the hills subside, admitting an exquisite view of Mont Blanc, whose snowy summit, though 60 m. distant, is often reflected in its waters. "Lake Leman woos me with its crystal face, The mirror where the stars and mountains view The stillness of their aspect in each trace Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue." At its E. or upper extremity it extends to the very base of the high Alps, which by their close vicinity give its scenery a character of increased mag nificence. The boats on the lake are very pic turesque, having latine sails like the craft of the Mediterranean. Among the fish of the lake trouts are rare; the Lotte, on which Rousseau's Julie makes her last repast, is described as "une espèce de barbeau, assez fade, peu cher, et commun." Steamboats.-Steamers leave Geneva and Villeneuve, at the two extremities of the lake, every morning. They make the voyage from one end to the other in about 4 hours. The steamers do not take carriages. They stop to land and receive passengers at Coppet, Nyon, Rolle, Morges, Ouchy (the port of Lausanne), Vevay, and Villeneuve-all situated on the N. shore of the lake, and described in the next route. There is no direct watercommunication between Geneva and the towns on the S. (Savoyard) side of the lake, described in Route 57. ROUTE 56. GENEVA TO MARTIGNY, BY LAUSANNE, VEVAY, CHILLON, BEX, AND ST. MAURICE. 26ğ leagues 80 Eng. m. This is a post-road, tolerably supplied with post-horses, the charges being the same as in France, viz., 1 fr. 50 c. for each horse per post, and 75 c. to the postilion; for every per The greater part of the first stage out of Geneva lies among villas and pleasure grounds not unlike English country-seats. Few spots in Europe present so many admirable sites for a dwelling as the shores of Lake Leman in full view of Mont Blanc. After a mile or two Mont Blanc is of Voirons, and does not reappear hid behind the intervening mountains until near Nyon. The parish of Versoix, through which the road passes, formerly beChoiseul, minister of Louis XV., irrilonged to France. The Duke de tated with some proceedings of the raise a rival city at Versoix which inhabitants of Geneva, proposed to A pier was projected into the lake to should deprive Geneva of its trade. form a port, a grand Place was laid down, streets running at right angles plan was never carried into execution. were marked out; but beyond this the Hence the verses of Voltaire :— 66 "A Versoix nous avons des rues, Mais nous n'avons pas de maisons." A little beyond Versoix (now an inconsiderable village) we pass out of the canton of Geneva into that of Vaud. 1 Coppet-(Inn: Ange)—a small village of 600 Inhab., only remarkable for the Château, immediately behind it, but so placed as to command no view of the lake. It is now the property of Madame de Staël Vernet. It is a plain edifice, forming three sides of a square, the front towards the lake being flanked with a tower at each end. It was the residence of Madame de Staël the author, as well as of her father, the French minister Necker. There are portraits of her by David, of her parents M. and Ma |