different points peering above the nearer hills. The charms of the Lake of Zürich inspired the Idylls of Gessner: they are celebrated in an ode of Klopstock, and in the prose of Zimmerman. The lake is a long and narrow strip of water, about 26 miles in length from Zürich to Schmerikon, and not more than 3 broad at the widest part, between Stäfa and Wädensweil. The principal river falling into it is the Linth, which issues out at Zürich, under the name of Limmat. Scarcely any of the villages or towns on the lake are at all remarkable, except as the seats of flourishing industry. A few only of the principal places are enumerated below, with their distance by land from Zürich. The banks are distinguished as rt. and 1., in reference to the course of the Limmat. 1. The high ridge rising on the W. of Zürich, and bordering the lake for more than 12 miles, is the Albis. rt. 1 Küssnacht-(Inn: Sonne)-a village of 2114 Inhab.; not to be confounded with its namesake on the Lake of Lucerne, famous in the history of Tell. 1. Rüschlikon: behind this are the baths of Nydelbad, with a bath-house. rt. 13 Meilen (Inns: Löwe; Sonne)-a very considerable village of 3036 Inhab., chiefly silk-weavers, with a Gothic church, built 1490-9. 1. Thalwyl-(Inn: Adler.) Lavater is said to have written a portion of his work on Physiognomy at the parsonage of the village of OberRieden, about 34 m. farther on. 1. Horgen-(Inns: Meyerhof, new and good; Löwe). Here passengers bound for the Rigi, by way of Zug, disembark and cross the hills. Omnibus daily at 9, returning at 9 P.M. (Rte. 15.) 1. Wadenschwyl-(Inn: Seehof)— a pretty village of 4357 Inhab., containing silk factories. Above it stands the castle, formerly residence of the bailiff (oberamtman), now private property. 1. Richterswyl-(Inn: Drei Könige). Here is one of the largest cotton fac | tories on the borders of the lake. The village is built on the boundary line of cantons Zürich and Schwytz; behind it, the road to Einsiedeln ascends the hills. The pilgrims bound to that celebrated shrine usually disembark here. (See Rte. 74.) Zimmerman resided here as physician, and in his work on Solitude justly praises the extreme beauty of this spot. rt. Stäfa-(Inns: Krone; Sterne)— an industrious village, the largest on this side of the lake, with 3500 Inhab., by whom much silk and cotton is woven. Göthe resided here, 1797. The extremity of the lake beyond this lies out of the limits of the canton Zürich. It has been calculated that the number of inhabitants on each of its banks, hence to the town of Zürich, a distance of 16 miles, is not less than 12,000. On approaching Rapperschwyl and its long bridge, the pretty little isle of Aufnau becomes a conspicuous feature and ornament to the landscape. It has some celebrity as the retreat and burial-place of Ulric Von Hutten, a Franconian knight, the friend of Luther and Franz of Sickingen, distinguished equally for his talents and chivalrous bravery, but withal a bit of a roué. His satirical writings contributed not a little to the spread of the Reformation, but raised up against him such a host of enemies that he was forced to fly from the court of Charles V., and take refuge from their persecution, first, with Franz of Sickingen, and, after his death, in this little island. Zwingli had procured for him an asylum here, in the house of the curate, where he died a fortnight after his arrival (1523), at the age of 36. He was buried by a faithful friend, but all record of the spot in which he lies has long since disappeared. The Bridge of Rapperschwyl is probably the longest in the world: it extends from the town to a tongue of land on the opposite side, completely across the lake, a distance of 4800 ft., or more than of a mile. It is only 12 ft. broad, is formed of loose planks laid (not nailed) upon piers, A small stone pier has been thrown out into the lake at Rapperschwyl, a little below the bridge, outside the gate of the town, to receive passengers and merchandize from the steamboat. rt. Rapperschwyl-(Inn: H. du Lac, very good).This is a very picturesque old town, in canton St. Gall (1600 Inhab.), still partly surrounded by walls, and surmounted by an Old Castle (Der Grafenburg) and a Church, near which, from the terrace called Lindenhof, a fine view is obtained. Posthorses are kept here, and throughout canton St. Gall (§ 5. Introduct.) Rapperschwyl is about 18 m. from Zürich, and the same distance from Wesen. The diligence takes about 3 hrs. either way. A char costs 12 fr.; and a calèche with two horses, 20 to 24 fr. Roads run from hence to St. Gall, and across the bridge to Einsiedeln. (Rte. 74, and Glarus, by Lachen, Rte. 72.) At Schmerikon (Inn: Ross), at the E. extremity of the Lake of Zürich, the road quits its margin; the castle of Grynau, on the rt., stands on the Linth, a little above its entrance into the lake. Pedestrians will find the towing-path along the Linth canal shorter than the carriage-road from Schmerikon to Wesen. 2 Uznach (Inn: zum Linth-hof, very fair)-a small town of 900 Inhab., on an eminence, the summit of which is occupied by a small square tower of the ancient castle and by that of the church. The road to St. Gall (Rte. 69) turns off here. There are mines of brown coal at Oberkirch, about a mile from Uznach, in a hill 1500 feet high. Near Uznach is an immense cotton mill, driving 24,480 spindles, and having 100 windows on each side. It is supplied with water from a mountain-torrent descending immediately behind it. Soon after leaving Uznach, the val ley of Glarus opens out into view, with the snowy mountains near its head, a very beautiful prospect. Out of this valley issues the river Linth, an impetuous torrent, fed by glaciers, and carrying down with it vast quantities of débris, which had accumulated to such an extent 25 years ago, that its channel was obstructed, and its bed raised many feet above the level of the lower part of the valley. From this cause arose repeated and most dangerous inundations, which covered the fertile district on its banks with stone and rubbish, and converted the meadows into a stagnant marsh. Nearly the entire valley between the lakes of Zürich and Wallenstadt was reduced to a desert, and its inhabitants, thinned in numbers by annual fevers, arising from the pestilential exhalations, abandoned the spot. The valley of the Linth was relieved from this dire calamity by Mr. Conrad Escher, who suggested to the Diet, in 1807, the ingenious plan of digging a new bed for the waters of the Linth, and turning it into the lake of Wallenstadt, in whose depths it might deposit the sand and gravel which it brought down, without doing any damage. He at the same time proposed to improve the issues of the lake of Wallenstadt by digging a navigable canal from it to the lake of Zürich, so as to carry off the waters of the Linth, and the other streams falling into it, and cause it to drain the intervening valley, instead of inundating it. This important and useful public work was completed by Escher in 1822, and has been attended with perfect success. In consequence of it the valley is no longer sterile and unwholesome, and the high road to Wesen, which was often cut off and broken up by inroads of the river, is now carried in a straight line along its rt. bank. Immediately opposite the opening of the valley of the Linth, at whose extremity the mountains of Glarus now appear in all their grandeur, a simple Monumental Tablet of black marble has been let into the face of the rock by the roadside, to the memory of the public-spirited citizen who conferred this great benefit on the surrounding country. He earned from it, in addition to his name, the title Von der Linth, the only title which a republic could properly confer, and of which his descendants may be more proud than of that of count or baron. The Linth is here crossed by a bridge called Ziegelbrücke, over which runs the road to Glarus. (Rte. 72.) Near it are a cotton manufactory and an establishment for the education of the poor of the canton Glarus. It is called the Linth Colony, because it owes its origin to a colony of 40 poor persons, afterwards increased to 180, who were brought hither by charitable individuals from the over-peopled villages of the canton, and setted on this spot, which was the bed of the Linth previous to Escher's improvements, in order to reclaim it by removing the stones and rubbish, and rendering it fit for cultivation. They were lodged, fed, and allowed a small sum for wages, the expense being defrayed by subscription. After having, by these means and by the correction of the Linth, described above, restored the valley to a state fit for agriculture, and having, above all, been saved themselves from starvation, in a season of scarcity, they were dismissed to seek their fortunes with some few savings to begin the world; and, what was of more importance, with industrious habits, which they had learned while settled here. In the school which now replaces the colony, 40 children from 6 to 12 are taught, and teachers are also instructed. There is a good Inn, Zum Escher Linth, about a mile before entering Wesen. 33 Wesen (Inn: L'Epée) is a village of about 500 Inhab., at the W. extremity of the lake of Wallenstadt, and in the midst of scenery of great magnificence. Diligences and barges start from Wesen to Schmerikon and Glarus after the arrival of the steamers. Passengers can proceed along the Linth canal to Schmerikon in barges very pleasantly in 2 hours, more quickly than by diligence; fare 2 Swiss francs. The distance by land is reckoned 2 posts. [A carriage may be hired from Wesen to the Righi by way of Einsiedeln (Rte. 74). The journey takes up 2 days, halting at Einsiedeln the first night. The road turns out of that to Zürich at the New Inn, Zum Escher Linth, crosses the canal, and proceeds through a pretty country by Galgenen and Lachen (Ox, a good inn), where it falls into the route from Rapperschwyl.] Glarus is 3 leagues Wesen (Rte. 72). = 9 miles from LAKE OF WALLENSTADT. A steam-boat runs between Wesen and Wallenstadt, to and fro, 2 or 3 times a day in summer. The voyage takes up about 1 hour; fare about 1s. 8d. English. Carriages are taken at about 5s. English, being shipped and landed free of expense, except a trinkgeld. Diligences are provided at either end of the lake to carry on passengers as soon as landed. The Inns at Wesen and Wallenstadt should be avoided, being bad and enormously dear, 1850. Previous to the construction of the Linth canal, the only outlet for the lake of Wallenstadt was a small stream called the Magg, which encountered the Linth, after a course of about 2 miles, and was arrested by the débris and stones brought down by that river, so that not only were its waters often dammed up behind, but the surface of the lake was raised several feet above its ordinary level, in consequence of which they overflowed the valley both above and below it, and laid the villages of Wallenstadt, at the one end, and Wesen, at the other, under water for many months during the spring. By Escher's correction of the course of the Linth, its waters are now carried into the lake, where they have already formed, by their deposit of mud and gravel, a delta nearly half a mile long. Another canal, deep and protected at the side with strong dykes, now supplies the place of the Magg, and drains the lake of Wallenstadt into that of Zürich. The lake of Wallenstadt is about 12 miles long by 3 broad; its scenery | Behind it rises the mountain Murtis grand, but not first rate; far infe- schenstock. Its summit, 7270 feet rior to that of the lake of Lucerne. high, and almost inaccessible, is traIts N. shore consists of colossal cliffs versed through and through by a of lime and sand-stone, regularly cavern, which, though of large size, stratified, and so nearly precipitous looks from the lake like the eye of that there is room for no road, and a bodkin. The hole is best seen only for a very few cottages at their when abreast of the village of Mühlebase, while their steep surface, almost horn; by those not aware of the fact, destitute of verdure, gives to this lake it might be mistaken for a patch of a savage and arid character. The S. snow. This peak is the favourite reside consists of more gradually sloping sort of chamois. hills covered with verdure and overtopped by the tall bare peaks of more distant mountains. Here there are several villages, and a very rough and irregular road runs along it. The lake has the reputation of being dangerous to navigate, on account of sudden tempests; but in this respect it does not differ from other mountain lakes. In Jan. 1851, however, the steamer was submerged by a squall, and every soul on board, 14 in all, perished. It was fished up from a great depth. The precipices along the N. bank vary between 2000 and 3000 feet in height, and the stranger is usually surprised to learn that above them are situated populous villages and extensive pastures crowded with cattle. Such a one is the village of Ammon, containing 3000 Inhab., nearly 2500 feet above the lake, with a church, gardens, and orchards. It is approached by one narrow and steep path, which may be traced sloping upwards from Wesen along the face of the mountain. Several waterfalls precipitate themselves over this wall of rock, or descend, by gashes or rents in its sides, into the lake; but they dwindle into insignificance by the end of summer, and add no beauty to the scene. The principal ones are the Beyerbach, 900 feet high (above which lies Ammon), and the Seerenbach, 1200 feet high, The hamlet of St. Quinten is the only one on this side of the lake. On the opposite (S.) side there are numerous villages at the mouths of the streams and gullies. The principal of them is Murg, near which a large cotton-factory has been built. The N.E. extremity of the lake is bounded by the 7 picturesque peaks of the Sieben Churfirsten (sometimes written Kuhfirsten). At their feet lies the village of Inns: Rössli 3 Wallenstadt. (Cheval); Hirsch (Cerf, or Poste); Aigle d'Or, nearest the steamer. All inferior inns. Wallenstadt is a scattered township of 800 Inhab.; nearly half a mile from the lake, of which it commands no view. The flats of the valley around and above it are marshy, and the neighbourhood was formerly very unhealthy, so long as the irregularities of the Linth obstructed the pas sage of the waters of the lake. The evil might be entirely cured were similar measures adopted to confine and regulate the course of the Scez, which still overflows the valley at times. Wallenstadt is a dull place, and travellers had better avoid stopping here. There is considerable beauty in the scenery of the valley of the Scez, between Wallenstadt and Sargans (Inns: Kreutz (Croix Blanche); Löwe;) a town of 723 Inhab., on an eminence surmounted by a castle, near the junction of the roads from St. Gall and Zürich to Coire. It stands upon the watershed dividing the streams which feed the Rhine from those which fall into the lake of Wallenstadt; and this natural embankment is so slight (about 200 paces across and less than 20 feet high) that, as the deposits brought down by the Rhine are constantly raising its bed, it is not impossible, though scarcely probable, that the river may change its course, relinquish its pre sent route by the lake of Constance, and take a shorter cut by the lakes of Wallenstadt and Zürich. It was calculated by Escher von der Linth, from actual measurements, that the waters of the Rhine need rise but 19 feet to pass into the lake of Wallenstadt; and it is, indeed, recorded that the river, swollen by long rains in 1618, was prevented taking this direction only by the construction of dams along its banks. Geologists argue, from the identity of the deposits of gravel in the valley of the Upper Rhine with those in the vale of Scez, that the river actually did pass out this way at one time. The remainder of this route up the valley of the Rhine by 4 Ragatz to 2 Zizers, 2 Coire, together with the excursion to Pfeffers Baths, which no one who passes this way should omit, are described in Rte. 67. ROUTE 15, ZÜRICH TO ZUG AND LUCERNE, BY 14 leagues 43 Eng. miles. engines. A series of zigzags carries the carriage road over the Albis ridge behind Horgen. From the summit, especially from a spot only m. off the road, called Bocke, you obtain a fine view of the lake as far as Rapperschwyl and its long bridge. After an ascent of about 3 m. the descent is at once commenced, the road running for the most part along the rt. bank of the Sihl, crossing it at the village of Sihlbrücke, by a bridge, which conducts from canton Zürich into canton Zug. From the ridge which succeeds, the Righi and Pilatus mountains are first seen, and soon after the borders of the lake of Zug are reached. 4 Zug (Inns: Hirsch (Cerf), good; Ochs, comfortable and cheap ;) capital of canton Zug, the smallest state of the Confederation, has 3200 Inhab., and is prettily situated at the N.E. corner of the lake. It has an antiquated look, surrounded by its old walls, and, being without trade, has a silent and deserted air. Its inhabitants, exclusively Roman Catholics, are chiefly occupied with agricultural pursuits. The rich crops, vineyards, orchards, and gardens, on the borders of the lake, proclaim a soil not ungrateful to the cultivator. There is a Capuchin Convent and a Nunnery here. The picture by Caraccì in the former, mentioned by the guide-books, is none of his, but is by an inferior artist, Fiamingo, and of no great merit. The Ch. of St. Michael, a little way outside of the town, has a curious bonehouse attached to it, containing many hundred skulls, each inscribed with the name of its owner. It is the custom for the relations of the dead to cause their skulls to be taken up, 3 Horgen, the road runs along the cleaned, labelled with their names W. shore of the lake of Zürich, de- and date of birth and death, and then scribed at p. 29. The best mode of placed in the bonehouse! The churchproceeding thus far is in the steam- yard in which it stands is filled with boat (p. 29), At Horgen-(Inns: quaint gilt crosses by way of monuMeyerhof, at the waterside, good and ments, and the graves are planted new; Löwe)-char-à-bancs and horses with flowers. The Cemetery deserves may be hired for 12 or 14 francs to Zug, a visit; the display of armorial beara drive of about 2 hours. A brown ings, coats, and crests, even on the coal or lignite is obtained at Horgen, humblest tomb, is a remarkable decobut it will not answer as fuel for steam-ration in a republican state! |